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Travel Diary (continued)
the Bounty. Despite early discoveries by the British it was the French who ultimately claimed what is now known as French Polynesia, including the Austral Islands which they annexed as a colony in 1880. The colonial history of the region is credited for having brought an end to tribal civil strife and warfare, but at a great cost to the indigenous populations both in infections like smallpox and in marginalizing local cultural practices. Unfortu- nately, too, many cultural artifacts like tikis have been absconded by colonists and others over the years but some treasures can be seen at places like the British Museum in London.
The Austral islanders revealed a mostly subsistence lifestyle through taro farming and fishing. Tropical fruits, especially breadfruit, contribute to a diet fairly rich in starch. Little in the way of electricity or running water is standard and certainly not
TRAVEL DIARY—THE AUSTRAL ISLANDS, MARCH 2022
the internet. These small, populated islands apparently rely upon a very community-centered, interdependent life. While Protes- tantism remains the dominant religion, ancient religious prac- tices are maintained as well, notably, through “speakers,” select orators who sing and speak their oral traditions and stories to a background of dancing and pounding drums. It was quite power- ful to witness these performances. The entire journey left us with new appreciation for a region of great beauty, notable history, and much more.
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This particular lime-
stone cave in Rurutu claims great spiritual powers.
Preparing taro, a staple food crop throughout Oceania.
Native-style brunch in the Tuamotu Archipelago.
This was the tribe's "speaker," a Chief who passes along the history of his people since there is nothing written down.
Marquesas dancers at a show performed at LeTahiti Hotel, Tahiti.
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