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BROKEN FASHION SHOW SYSTEM
In pursuit of a more sustainable future for the Amsterdam fashion week from an environmental perspective, help may come from an unexpected angle. It seems that fashion weeks, and fashion shows in general, also have a business, or economical, sustainability issue.
The exposure and coverage of the big and costly shows has allowed many people to have real-time access to trends originating from anywhere in the world, this access being facilitated by the emergence of new practices such as ‘coolhunting’ 9 where professionals look out for new cultural trends across the world. Fast-fashion brands such as Zara, H&m, Uniqlo or Forever 21 began to focus on ever-renewed styles at very low costs.
High Fashion started to look at the fast pace of the fast fashion industry and began to respond to what people where demanding; new items all the time. More collections were produced and the new normal is producing 6 collections every year (A/W, S/S, Pre-fall, Resort, Pre-spring, Haut Couture). More and more clothes are being produced and the time span of creating became shorter, and also the time span to sell.
According to the Historical Dictionary of the Fashion Industry10, “By 2015, designers, buyers, fashion journalists and fashion organisations, such as the Council of Fashion Designers of America and the British Fashion Council, began to examine the “broken” fashion system as it related to the overcrowded fashion show schedule, the excessive number of shows and the relevance of showing fashion that cannot be immediately purchased; since the traditional fashion show system features merchandise six months in advance of the selling season and live-streamed fashion shows are available to consumers where immediacy is key for consumers in a digital age.
Burberry was the first to make the decision to change the model by showing only two collections a year11, combining their menswear and womenswear in the same show, featuring clothes in season and not six months ahead of the season, and making the merchandise for sale immediately afterwards.
In 2016, recording artist Kanye West and Adidas made fashion history when, timed to the launch of West’s new album The Life of Pablo, they held the first ever consumer ticket-holder fashion show at Madison Square Garden with tickets for their Yeezy-Adidas show priced at $275 each.”
9https://www.researchgate.net/publication/ 297044108_From_Fashion_Forecasting_to_Coolhunting_Previsional_Models_in_Fashion_and_in_ Cultural_Production
10Historical Dictionary of the Fashion Industry, Francesca Sterlacci, Joanne Arbuckle ISBN9781442239081
11https://wwd.com/fashion-news/designer-luxury/burberry-runway-delivery-schedule-direct- consumer-10340340/