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the abundance of other life characteristic of the Okavango. In some parts we had to use harnesses to haul the mokoros across floodplains of sticky mud and dense grass beds. We did not have the advantage of the fires that had ravaged the delta that year clearing undergrowth, as they had not reached these remote channels and floodplains north of Chief ’s Island. Much of the time we were lost and or stuck. The scientific surveys, however, in partnership with the Okavango Research Institute, did benefit from the extra sampling days.
At times Oja was understandably having trouble remembering the route in this dynamic alluvial fan more than forty years later, and we would then resort to Gobonamang’s philosophy, which is to trust the “Mother Okavango”, watch out for hippos, and simply follow the water. Lost in the wonder of the delta itself, we crossed it using traditional knowledge systems. We had access to satellite images and this was helpful at times, but not totally dependable. Our guide’s Wayeyi culture around hippos kept us safe, and their ability to navigate by “reading the water” kept us in the right channels. Their traditions around memorising mokoro routes is astonishing. This traditional knowledge, and the skills acquired through a lifetime of experience, highlights the importance of actively investing in, and protecting, ancient knowledge systems, culture and heritage.
Above: A diversity of wildlife exists in abundance in the Delta. These kudu males are just one of several antelope species which occur here. (Image: Kai Collins)
Facing Page Top: In 2020, the Covid-19 pandemic resulted
in the cancellation of large expeditions and instead our local Motswana team undertook several smaller field trips into the Delta. This helped to secure crucial research data for our long- term biodiversity and environmental monitoring programmes. (Image: Megan Matern)
Facing Page Bottom: Kai Collins, Director of the National Geographic Okavango Wilderness Project, testing water chemistry. Wetlands such as the Okavango Delta are extremely sensitive to upstream activities that can alter water chemistry and affect the entire food chain as well as ecosystem services. (Image: Russell MacLaughlin)
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