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In the Bungert-Mauer winery in the small wine-growing village of Ockenheim, we meet not only the oldest German grape variety, but also specialists who can excellently handle the 350-year-old German tradi- tional vine. Martina and Matthias Bungert dedicate their entire vintage to the Silvaner, which is also
called the „Austrian“ in Rheinhessen. Despite varietal diversity in the Rhineland farms, Silvaner and Rieslings are still the „bread and butter vines“ of the winemakers.
And the Silvaner especially means the best in many ways in Rheinhessen. With ten million vines worldwide, the largest Silvaner cultivation area of 2,320 hectares, nine percent of the vineyard, is planted with Silvaner. 30 per cent of German vineyards were planted with Silvaner up until the 70s. But the vine is anything but easy. It thrives in the best soil, needs the intensive care of the winemaker in both the cultivation period and in the cellar, and it forgives no mistakes.
„We combine innovation and tradition in our com- pany,“ says Matthias Bungert. His vineyards nestle on the banks of the Rhine on the sunny slopes of the Jakobsberg and thrive splendidly in mud, loess, clay, sand, and shell limestone. Why does he focus only on the dif cult to cultivate Silvaner? „It is a vine native to this region, which is well-suited to the climate and soil, provides healthy grapes, wines with ne aromas and is also very popular as a table grape,“ says Bungert about the variety. Rheinhessen locals call the fruits of the vineyards table grapes; they also enjoy eating the Silvaner. The large round berries, a harmony of sweet and sour, the high juice content, and the nearly seedless grapes are a great treat.
Changeable History
In recent decades, the Silvaner has been appreciated by winegrowers in particular because of its lush yields and unfortunately often misused as bulk wine. This was no good for either the Silvaner or the winegrowers when it was misused as „watered down bulk wine“. Demand went down. The Rheinhessen vintnership under their former brotherhood leader Prof. Dr. Hans-Jörg Koch feared for the continued existence of the grape varie- ty and launched the „RS“ Rheinhessen-Silvaner. In the meantime, there were more than 20 winemakers ope- rating under the strictly controlled cultivation and yield standards and putting an elegant, tasteful, original wine on the market with a protected designation of origin.
The Silvaner from Bungert
More than ten percent of his 22 hectares of vineyards are located in the Bungert-Mauer vineyard. With a con- sistent yield reduction of a maximum of 7,500 litres per hectare, Bungert achieves top wines. In the case of late vintages, he only has a yield of 3,500 to 4,000 litres.
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