Page 74 - DiVin022017

The situation is similar with wine. Again, we have something like a multi-storey house, however, there are the oors of barrels, which con- tain the wine. On the lower level, the Solera, there are the older wines, of which only a portion is dispensed.
The space freed up in the barrels will be lled among the slightly younger wines from the overlying row of barrels, the Criadera, and these in turn with the wines above, up to the top row. As in our example with the house, the young wine is poured into the top barrel. The Criadera & Solera system is applied to all Sherry variants, but here the producers determine individually how often the wines are lled up. For some this happens only once a year, while others ll them up to four times a year.
Sherry is not just Sherry
Sherry is pure magic. According to Master Blender Antonio Flores of Gonzalez Byass.
What is commonly referred to as Sherry, is very varied and complex, but also allows us to nd a Sherry style suitable for almost every oc- casion. Whether as an aperitif or to accompany a meal, the possi- bilities seem endless.
Sherries are divided into three production categories:
1. Biologically mature Sherries
2. Oxidatively aged Sherries
3. The biological and oxidatively matured Sherries.
Here 95% of the production uses the „Solera & Criadera system“.
In the maturing period, we distinguish between the following: Añada - vintage sherry (Vintage) 12 and 15 years - Sherry with
age indication
20 years - VOS - Very Old
Sherry/Vinum Optimum Signatum from 30 years - VORS - Very Old Rare Sherry/Vinum Optimum
Rare Signatum
The minimum maturation period must be 2 years.
Biological maturation thus also brings us to the first represen- tatives, the Fino and Manzanilla. From maturation identical to the Fino in Jerez and El Puerto de San- ta Maria, the Manzanilla is, however produced by the sea in Sanlúcar de Barrameda.
Biological maturation is based on the exclusion of the external oxygen supply to the wine. This is achieved by using so-called or yeast the coverage which shields the wine on the surface; this is produced from various unicellular yeasts (Saccharomyces).
What happens when the or is at the end of its life cycle? The wine is at a turning point and begins to come into direct contact with oxy- gen and the oxidative maturation begins. Many producers decide the wine needs bottling at this point. We are speaking here about a Fino-Amontillado or Manzanilla Pasada. The wines here are already adult, complex and have passed through their youthful ferocity. Visually, the yellow notes are now already a light amber.
Subsequently, the wine matures completely through oxidation as pure Amontillado and is the only Sherry variant that has passed th- rough the biological and oxidative maturation stage.
Other representatives of the Sherry family are naturally sweet sherries (Pedro Ximénez and Moscatel) with a higher sugar content in the grape compared to the Palomino grape.
The lighter Moscatel (from 160g/l) is produced from the same grape that grows in the immediate vici- nity of the sea.
The nearly black Pedro Ximénez is probably about the sweetest wine in the world (from 212g/l).
The Oloroso is removed comple- tely by oxidation; for basic wine making, the second pressing of the Palomino grape is used here.
As a rarer representative in ap- pearance, through completely in- dependent development during the maturation, we get the mys- tical Palo Cortado. Few barrels in a simultaneously bottled series take this course. Recognising such wines requires all the skill of the winemaker.
A special group is Generoso Li- queur Sherries. They are designed mainly for export; by the addition of natural sweet wines they will be perceived in many countries as having a more accessible taste.
1. The medium. These wines are produced mostly by mixing liquor with natural sweet wines or grape juice concentrate.
A. The medium dry. Here the sugar content is up to 45g/l.
B. The medium sweet has a sugar content from 45g/l.
The mediums are very well suited as an aperitif (served at 12-14°C). 2. Cream is classified as a se- mi-sweet Sherry.
Its sugar content is up to 140g/l and it is perfectly usable as a des- sert wine.
3. Pale Cream, one of the youn- gest representatives of Genero- so Liqueur Sherry, is for fans of Manzanillas and Finos who prefer a sweet avour.
You can see that the sherry world is very diverse and it‘s worth going on this expedition, especially du- ring food pairing. Fortunately, most types of Sherry are now available to buy in shops as nothing should get in the way of their enjoyment. Enjoy!
Text:
Torsten Habermann
Sherry Educator & Sommelier (Cámara de Comercio de Madrid)
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