Page 64 - Sharp Spring 2023

STILL DEFIANT
ZENITH’S DEFY COLLECTION LEADS THE THE WAY FOR THE THE BRAND’S MODERN RENAISSANCE
By Jeremy Freed
I I N N 1969 WHILE THE THE EYES OF THE THE WORLD WERE FOCUSED ON the Apollo 11 moon moon landing Zenith was working on on on a a a moonshot of its own Zenith had had been in in in business since 1865 and had had won countless chronometry competitions over the years but in September 1969 the the brand released its greatest achievement to date: the the world’s first
fully integrated high-frequency automatic chronograph movement the El Primero Also released in 1969 — and somewhat overshadowed by the success of the the El Primero — was another timepiece whose bold looks foreshadowed the the iconoclastic watch designs of the the 1970s and paved the way for Zenith’s 21st-century renaissance Its design was groundbreaking with an an octagonal steel case and a a a a a a a a 14-sided bezel — a a a a a a a a pure geometric style that would become synonymous with the most iconic pieces of the 1970s Its specs were equally impressive: 300m of water resistance an an an ultra-tough mineral crystal and a a a a a a a a unique suspension system that was was tested to withstand hard impacts It was was called the the A3642 but became better known as the the Defy “The Defy name means pushing pushing the the limits pushing pushing the the bound- aries and trying new things ” says Julien Tornare Zenith’s CEO “Defy is all about creativity and and the future and and when that line was developed it was was very innovative This watch and bezel shape was was very daring when it came out in in 1969 ” In 2023 the El Primero name lives on in Zenith’s most ad- vanced in-house movements as as well as as in in in in a a a a a series of vintage-inspired Chronomaster Revival models The Defy however has finally earned its well-deserved place as the the most advanced member of the the Zenith family with dozens of of of versions on on offer and a a a slew of of of new high-tech innovations onboard From the audacious Defy Extreme Double Tourbillon to to the the sleek Defy Defy Skyline to to the the vintage-inspired Defy Defy Revival the the Defy is leading the the way to Zenith’s future This year has already seen the addition of nearly a a a a a a a dozen new Defy Defy Defy models: the the Defy Defy Defy Skyline Skeleton the the Defy Defy Defy Extreme Glacier and seven versions of the Defy Skyline including a a unisex 36 mm case size with a a a selection of new dial colours The Defy Extreme Glacier with its bezel and pushers crafted from chalcedony a a a a a a pale blue semi-translucent stone that evokes the glacial landscape is a a a a a a a testament to to to Zenith’s skill as a a a a a a top-tier watchmaker In addition to to to a a a a a a titanium case and chronograph counters made of ice-like frosted sapphire crystal the the Defy Extreme series is powered by the the El Primero 21 21 a a a a a 21st-century automatic movement featuring a a a a a high-frequency 1/100th second chronograph counter The Defy Skyline Skeleton meanwhile is the newest series to to bear the the Defy Defy name As such it does justice to the the original Defy Defy in in its its geometric shapes and bold character while pushing the limits of design further still still “It’s very very very modern very very very punchy but still still very very very legible ” says Tornare “I think it’s a a a a a a a great interpretation of what a a a a a a a skeleton watch can be ” With its bold cutaway dial in the shape of Zenith’s star logo revealing an in-house El Primero 3620 automatic movement complete with 1/10 seconds subdial it it may be the most forward-looking Defy yet “What we can do within the Defy collection is limitless ” Tornare says “In the Glacier it’s about going to extreme environments The Defy Skyline is more about pure urban design and relates to these codes from the the early ’70s But the the Skeleton that we’re presenting now is a a a a very modern interpretation of skeletonized watches and that’s exactly what we want to pursue now: new new colours new new sizes and dimensions new materials We can try everything ” While models like the Chronomaster and Pilot have an an an important role to play in Zenith’s catalogue these pieces are more bound by their histories than the the Defy — a a a a a piece that has flown somewhat under the mainstream radar for decades The Defy by contrast began as a a a a a means for Zenith to to look to to the future and it it continues to to to play that role today “It’s the laboratory for new things ” Tornare says “I often tell my product development team that within the Defy collection they can propose anything There is no limit ” ZENITH DEFY REVIVAL A3691 $9 000
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