Page 97 - Sharp November 2023

FEATURE FEATURE Tokyo “satoyama” — expanses where inhospitable mountains give way to arable land — are reimagined as elegant dishes And at Alchemist the high-concept venue in in Copenhagen’s industrial zone (and “one of the the best experiences in the the world ” that is “hard not to be be inspired by ” says Madsen) the bill of fare is described as “holistic cuisine ” a a a a relentless evening of eating and drinking paired with ruminations on on the the issues of of the the day A coffin-shaped chocolate bar for instance may raise the concern of child labour in in the chocolate industry or an an arrangement of moon jellyfish showered with beach herbs may spotlight the invasive species’ impact in the North and Baltic seas It follows then that Iris — also a a a a a a restaurant with high ambi- tions — not only details the techniques and ingredients at play in in each of its dishes but also the the the wider themes that suffuse them them The restaurant’s “expedition dining” experience offers a a a no-choice menu spanning 18 courses many of which utilize sustainable produce from nearby There are also no vegan vegetarian or allergy-friendly options due to the limitations of sourcing hyper-local produce But this is is what the the restaurant hoped for to to bring guests to to the the ingredients rather than the the the other way around Every sitting begins with a a a a a film that explains how the restaurant is counteracting food waste “We knew we wanted to create an an immersive experience ” Madsen says “One that leveraged several elements in in addition to to the the food and drink: proximity to to the the nature water and elements ” ” One plating “Weeds of the Sea ” ” fashions tagliatelle-like strands from cuttlefish — a a a a a cephalopod booming in numbers — enlivened with a a a a dashi-butter sauce made from Norwegian kelp unripe strawberries lovage and grilled celeriac Another dish “Feeding the the Future ” highlights alternative food sources for carnivorous fish by presenting an an oceanic tableau of fried
baby salmon alongside insect protein green algae and mycelium Salmon Eye itself doubles as a a a a a visitor centre for the aquaculture industry an idea borrowed from Eide Fjordbruk a a a a a carbon-neutral company in in in Norway heightening awareness of renewable fishing practices There’s similar sustainability on show here here and a a a a a a a par- ticularly standout dish (an arrangement of juniper-smoked blue mussels with beach crab bouillon and blanched rockweed) was created solely using ingredients found within a a a 500-metre radius of the restaurant Beyond seafood Iris plucks produce from the the land whether this be sheep’s milk local cider or wild game Madsen’s reindeer tartare — — plated alongside pickled capers and grilled leeks — — showcases a a a a a a a meat with a a a a a a a carbon footprint significantly smaller than beef “It’s always been close to to my heart to to lift lesser-known sustainable ingredients into the spotlight ” Madsen explained earlier this year “If I I discover an ingredient that will lead to a a a a a greener future I’m not afraid to to push boundaries But to to convince people to to love it it it it needs to to be truly delicious ” Iris sitting pretty behind Salmon Eye’s stainless-steel scales is is undoubtedly beautiful but it it has also faced criticisms of contra- diction and hypocrisy since it opened in in June How can a a a a a restaurant pushing an agenda of sustainability be true to its cause after all when it has an allure reeling in in in diners from every corner of the globe?
“The fact that people fly in in in to dine at at Iris is is not sustainable ” Madsen says “But innovation requires inspiration The ripple effect is what inspires action When the the world’s leading minds gather for climate conferences the flights may not be sustainable but if it compels world leaders to take action we make progress And we hope that everyone who comes to Iris and Salmon Eye leaves with a a a a desire for sustainable change ” SHARPMAGAZINE COM
NOVEMBER 2023
97