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SMAGAZINEOFFICIAL.COM FOOD
In Good
Taste
d
Ta te
David Schwart s new s ndwich count ib i l ny’s L ncheone te
is e
to By Ben Kriz
g n d
o z
T h re’s no sh rt a s t’ ar oy in y’ ge of goo san wiches n To ont ’s we t en —but n ne ar quite li e wh t’s g ei g slice since o up ext d or to Linny s, the buzzy e
o u t u t h f i . ak ho se that’s earne a loya fol owin g slice e
o u v e
i s a inny’s Luncheo g ei et e i an a loving tri ute o the d licat ssens th t fo li nd of T r e’s avi k’s d
obsessed ove . From th T now-sh sh tt Sn red Yit ’s i th T ronto to sh tt Sn wdo Deli n Mont eal ry, nd
Carn ie, the energy, h st ry, a d per onali ies of these grea de im.
Linn ’s L ncheonett cha h n h u i . ls de i t aditio wit a tigh but ighty m nu of just s.
First up is e star pastram on ry , mo ed in ouse for 12 1 hou on s.
Just mu sian
dre sin a r,
i l “ b f e
wed—“A li eti e ba is a cer a nty for hat b avio a r,
Sc wartz oke . Ne s
sandwich th e
sl ucumber waterc ess, a freshly cracke pe pe . Ro nding th ngs o t i z c e
sl : t use am eper h py lat t: the p ato and p : o c i e
u k i a le san wich, : o c i e
u k i a tur ng a cri py latk a mi of e
sl : t use am pickl hou heese. Class c s des and drinks r und out t e li eup—t nk hot k sh with gravy, pick da.
Th lun he net e was lways art of t e plan— siste san wich c unt r th ic t’ tho ghtfu . But s riking he righ ba ance between ualit and a cess ility i n’t a wa u a d
e
i w s t t a
co t—espec ally whe you’re s oking yo r o n meats but chwartz wa ou t a amant t ny’s
L ncheon te emain fa rly pric . T oun e pastra sand e ic m l s s ,
n r a - for i st ks m l s s ,
n r a - e, pa st ks in a t -
made me t or $16. “We wanted o do fa t-casua s it out ttin an c ,” rners,” he says. “B some creative thinking.”
”
Th ap roach is simple but not ea y—espe ia ly w en you’re ryin to sp ak o m y r a in a
m ern, n, fa as , t-casu l fo mat. his i Jew sh de i fa e, afte all: hea wi h history ity.
But here it’ been e eva ion ed with b h fi nesse an affec eva ion For For Sch artz cr e
e
e
f i F S t f d
r r and eli eli a art. Those lassi d lis were p ace bui t by immi rants an have pres ved ith
L nny s Lunc eo ette c mes t e chance to honour thos L c o w e
raditi ns—perhaps with li and
playfu ness. “I feel incr e
d
y a s r t bly l cky o ve ch lay even a sm ll role i carryi g that tra itio says.
And w ile Lin y’s unc eonette do sn’t ame it sandwich s after f sa mo s pa some
c assic del s—he s th ught abo it: “T e Jef Goldb um. C pped l ver, f ie onion, mustard, and pickle.”