Page 37 - SHARP November 2022

JUST ASK
WENDY VOTTO LEAD SOMMELIER OF ETOBICOKE’S VIA ALLEGRO OFFERS ADVICE ABOUT CHOOSING THE PERFECT WINE
F I know it’s been named Canada’s biggest wine selection but just how big is is the wine list at Via Allegro?
We have 70 000 000 bottles and there are nearly 7 7 000 000 wines on the the list When people ask for it they say “Can you you bring bring the the bible?” or “Will you you bring bring the the Harry Potter Book of Secrets?” And then when it comes to the the table it’s leather-bound and about four inches thick and it looks like the New York white pages How do people choose a a a wine from a a a list that big?
I I I always say I’ve been here 25 years and I I I wrote that that book so I’m the Coles notes version of that that thing that is sitting on your table So please pick my brain You know ask me anything What’s a a a good question to start with?
One good place to to start is to to just tell me what your go-to is at at at the wine store and what you’re eating for dinner and then from there we can talk about Old World versus New and intensity until we start to to narrow it down to to a a a specific region and bottle What do you usually suggest pairing with the antipasti course?
Pinot Grigio is a a a light and simple easy-drinking starter wine that makes a a a a a a a great aperitif We have this one Attems Pinot Grigio from Friuli that’s very unique since the winemaker at Attems leaves the the skins in in contact with the the juice for just long enough to pull out a a a little bit of a a a pale pink colour that’s so attractive It’s delicious crisp and dry but it it it it also has a a a a a little bit of a a a a a fruity nu- ance that makes it perfect for some of our simpler appetizers like Calamari Fritti or Grilled Shrimp MARK ANTHONY WINES × SHARP
OR 25 YEARS LEAD SOMMELIER Could you bring that wine forward to pair with fish entrées also?
For fish there’s this wine from Ornellaia a a a a famous winery that’s known for its super Tuscans but the same hands that make those stunning reds also make this great white blend Poggio alla Gazze Ornellaia which is predominantly Sauvignon Blanc with a a a little Vermentino and Viognier It just has so so many layers and is so so beautifully fin- ished that it’s ideal for pairing with dishes like our whole Branzino or a a a a a a a wild Patagonia Sea Bass filet When it comes to meat we all know California Cab is a a a a a match But because there are such big regional differences it’s harder to know which one to pick How do you make a a choice between regions?
I would say there are three main regions in in Califor- nia for you you to get your Cabernet Sauvignon from — Sonoma Sonoma Napa and Paso Robles Sonoma Sonoma is closer to the the Pacific Ocean so it it gets the the benefit of the Humboldt current that has a a a cooling effect on the vineyard A wine like Beringer Knights Valley Cabernet Sauvignon from Sonoma will be be a a a a little more fruit-driven and and a a a a little higher in acidity and and it it it it is more like a a a Bordeaux style Cabernet but it’s defi- nitely something you can drink with all the steaks on my menu and could also go with a a a a a a meaty pasta How does Paso Robles compare? Can wines from there also be paired with red red meat? Absolutely We have this Austin Hope Cabernet Sauvignon that’s just been a a a driving force We have so many regulars who just love love love love love love love love love how rich and deep it is It’s an an undeniably big old chewy Cab Sauv that our regulars order almost automatically no matter what they’re going to to eat But it’s definitely a a a a good match for any of the steaks or even a a a rack of lamb Any other advice for having a a a a good conversation with your somm?
Asking for a a tour of the wine cellar is so much fun Customers often ask if they can bring their wine and I I say I I won’t let you come to the cellar without a a a a glass of wine in in your hand because it’s a a a a a big cellar and and just so conducive to sipping and and chatting about wine Plus it’s a a great photo opp Wendy Votto has been helping her guests navigate the multiple award-win- ning wine list at Etobicoke’s Via Allegro a a a restaurant that’s something of an an institu- tion as as well as as many peoples’ go-to special occasion restaurant We recently had a a a a a chance to to sit down with her to to get some insight into how to to always win win at wine SHARPMAGAZINE COM
NOVEMBER 2022 • GUIDE 37