Page 65 - Sharp September 2023

runway and in editorials.”
It helps to see celebrities wearing more jewellery, but what has
really encouraged men to step outside their comfort zones is seeing their peers wearing a little more bling. Consequently, men’s jewellery today trades in both revamped classics and new categories, eager to ease men into the world of gold, silver, and platinum however it can.
Messika, for example, offers dog tag-inspired titanium necklaces and cufflinks, infused with a cool, youthful edge thanks to matte finishing and the brand’s trademark sliding diamonds. “I’m creating a lot of non-gendered jewellery,” Messika tells SHARP. “It’s now in my spirits to appeal to more masculine proportions, something that I didn’t tap into before.”
Tiffany introduced its first men’s engagement ring in 2021, followed by the Tiffany Lock — an all-gender take on an iconic motif of the maison. Recently, the brand also unveiled a collaboration with Nike and began offering the kind of accessories that brands such as Supreme and Palace normally trade in: cocktail sets, pool balls, even a compass. It’s all an apparent attempt by what is arguably the world’s most recognizable jewellery brand to court sneaker-mad and hype-driven young men.
When he launched Boyd Court, Hill was trying to cater to that same mix of both classic and contemporary. “I felt there was a gap in the market. There were a ton of trendy products that felt fleeting and not the best quality, and then you had your traditional brands that have been around for 100-plus years. Nothing felt like it satisfied the middle market.” Four years on, it seems like a prescient decision, and the brand continues to offer irreverent takes on rings — in silver and gold, with gem signets and hammered textures — as well as pendants, earrings, and even sterling silver lighter sleeves.
Muller, who started making jewellery in 1997, also notes an uptick in the demand for bespoke jewellery of late. “I get lots of guys coming in to create custom pieces for themselves, either as a fun
accessory or a piece of significance-holding sentiment, a memento piece.” And he says it’s men “from all corners, coming and looking for all manner of things. It’s really incredible, and it has allowed me to expand my creativity.”
It’s clear that jewellery has been redefined for an entire gen- eration of men, however, both Hill and Messika feel one piece of jewellery still has room for growth: the humble wedding ring. “I think there’s still some hesitation with wedding bands,” says Hill. “We see women’s engagement rings having a real moment of creative inspiration and I think men should feel more confident branching out to different styles.”
As well, Messika recommends leather. “It’s definitely a great entryway for men looking to wear more jewellery,” she says, highlight- ing the brand’s My Move collection, which features interchangeable leather bands.
Such versatility is front and centre of this new era of men’s jewellery. Tiffany & Co.’s Lock is a sterling example, having been worn by both A-listers on red carpets and people with office jobs. Building on this success, the brand is set to launch a new collection around the motif in the fall, with global ambassador Jimin as the face of the campaign.
So for those tempted to step outside their comfort zones and wear more jewellery in the coming months, there is no shortage of designs to choose from. Whether it’s a safe, staid classic or a new wave statement piece, the newly initiated need know but one thing: choose your base material wisely. “Jewellery crafted from high quality materials such as sterling silver, gold, and platinum significantly impacts longevity and appearance,” Muller explains. And Hill recommends solid metals over plated and hollowed-out pieces. “If you’re going to invest,” he says, “make sure it will last.” It’s fine advice because one thing that’s sure to last is this new era of men’s jewellery.
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