Page 115 - Sharp Winter 2024

LEGEND HAS IT
RESURFACING FOR 2023, LONGINES’ ORIGINAL DIVE WATCH HAS BEEN OVERHAULED FOR THE 21ST CENTURY
By Jonathan Wells
I N 1959, THE FIRST DIVE WATCH FROM LONGINES — COMPLETE
with pioneering Super-Compressor case — was plunged into the ocean. It was an important moment for an important watch, with the internal rotating disc and double screw-down crown design of the “Skin Diver” ushering in a brave new age of underwater watchmaking.
Since then, Longines’ dive watches have sunk. Not in success, mind you — the enduring “Diver” models remain among the most popular pieces in the brand’s entire portfolio. We’re talking water resistance. Because, while that first Diver was impervious to a depth of only 120 metres, subsequent models have found further fathoms. By 1965, the watchmaker’s flagship dive watch was already water resistant to 200 metres — and had also gained an automatic winding movement.
A little under a decade later, in 1972, the Royal Australian Navy called upon the Swiss marque to make a handful of tool watches for its servicemen, and the Diver took its first dip down to the 300 metre mark. Here it remained when, in 2007, the model was relaunched with the same distinct dial design, innovative internal rotating bezel and deep-sea credentials — but a new name: “Legend Diver.”
This year sees Longines update its Diver once again. And, while those two crowns and a 300 metre water resistance continue to guarantee its recognisability, the 2023 model is presented in an entirely retooled 39 mm design — a slightly more compact case that returns the watch to its visual roots while still allowing it to benefit from modern technical advancements.
Such advancements include Longines’ new L888.6 calibre, equipped with a silicon balance-spring and components that grant a magnetic resistance ten times greater than the ISO 764 benchmark standard. The latest Legend Diver also has a power reserve of up to 72 hours, and comes chronometer-certified by COSC (Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres).
But the original spirit of the watch remains, as does the idea of an internal bidirectional rotating bezel for measuring dive times. The position of the bezel inside the case protects it from any accidental shocks that could disrupt the Legend Diver’s inner workings, and the screw-down crown at 2 o’clock activates it on the graduated 60-minute scale, which you can find capped with a luminescent triangle on the case flange.
But, even in spite of these intricate markings, it isn’t a busy dial. Available in either black or blue lacquer, the Legend Diver’s face features elongated hour markers and raised numerals, as well as rhodium-plated, polished arrow-hands coated in Super-LumiNova. The whole thing is topped with a domed sapphire crystal, with black metal plating and multiple layers of anti-reflective protection.
The case is similarly sleek; stainless steel and finished with alternating polished and satin-brushed surfaces. There’s a selection of straps, too, from brown leather and blue NATO to a new stainless steel bracelet with double-safety folding clasp. Flip the whole thing over, and you’ll see the model’s enduring symbol — a diver, with oxygen tanks strapped to his back and a harpoon in hand — stamped into the steel of its screw-down case back. It’s a suitably maritime motif for the Legend Diver, encapsulating a watch that is stylish, submersible and reliable to the end.
LONGINES × SHARP
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WINTER 2024 115