Page 63 - SHARP Spring 2022

STYLE STYLE The brand’s name was inspired by the 1970 John Cassavetes film Husbands When you design where do you you mainly draw your inspi- ration from?
Husbands is indeed named after the movie — and and although it it is is definitely a a a a cinematographic vision it is mostly because of the film’s main characters as they were exactly the the individuals we we wish to dress They are men who had bumps wrinkles stories flaws hard blows And it was a a a a kind of reaction to the whole fashion industry which was communicating totally aseptic versions of mascu- linity featuring models under 20 tall handsome tapered perfect — but without a a a story We wanted to dress a a a a different kind of masculinity — a a a a real masculinity and not a a a a a fantasized one The cinematographic musical and artis- tic dimensions remain very important to us [and that’s] because we do believe that that culture allows people to reveal themselves — and that you never dress someone someone as as well as as someone someone who knows him or herself But Husbands loves each era: we’re just as as as fascinated by a a a a a a pair of ’60s trousers as as as we are by a a a ’70s jacket We’re currently working on an ’80s-inspired 4x1 jacket with notched lapels and a a a a a slightly lower-waisted pair of pants inspired by by the 2000s That said we are also inspired by by everyday life by men we see on the street in Paris The further we we go the the more we we realise how much work there is still to do As a a a designer how do you balance honouring the classic suit with maintaining a a a a contempo- rary look?
Tailoring is not just about care in in construction It is also the search for a a a a a a a a certain balance and a a a a a a a a personal mode of expression that is found in the details — a a a a a a shoulder a a a a a a lapel a a a a a a fit a a a a a a leg opening Respecting classic tailoring is putting it at the service of a a a contemporary and timeless look because it it reflects the wearer’s personality Within this precise framework there remains a a a rather vast field of possibilities At the the beginning of Husbands only certain eras found favour in in our sight — but the the the further we we go the the the more we we discover the the richness of all eras and the the interest of of mixing them in in terms of of style Many details changed over the the years but the the great balances and proportions remain similar as as if there was also a a a a Golden ratio in in tailoring Why is a a a a well-tailored suit still a a a a wardrobe staple?
For its power to conceal and reveal When you don’t know what to wear a a a a well-cut suit is a a a a kind of key that allows you to go anywhere in any any context and in in any environment It’s like a a a second skin
that allows you to evolve in a a a a a a fairly neutral and benevolent way that allows you to be be confident in in any place A pair of jeans for instance is less neutral: it will stand out negatively in the middle of a a a a dressy evening whereas on on the contrary a a a a suit paired with boots will surprise positively in the middle of a a a more casual evening where everyone is wearing jeans The suit always receives benev- olence from people — for all the the shy ones it’s the the perfect armour When you’re young clothing can be violent: you’re not sure how to to wear it it if it’s too small or too long Having a a a a a a well-cut suit takes away these issues and leaves you free to focus on what matters Husbands works on its its its suits so that its its its customers can be busy living not contemplating their own clothes Do you think that men’s fashion can embrace more technical advancements in areas like textile development?
We always take an an an extremely modest stance and believe that one should never never say never never Our ambi- tion is to to go back to to the the roots of the the classic ward- robe to show its relevance but nothing prevents us if the time comes from exploring technical garments to meet this relevance We are driven by history and savoir-faire but we also like stylistic stories and today there are technical materials that that offer a a a a a richness of of language that that used to be available in classic garments but at the cost of excessive weight We try to understand what the essence of a a a classic garment is in in order to bring itbacktoourtime—nottomakeacopyofthe past So it’s perfectly conceivable to use lighter stronger materials that are more relevant to our lives today but give the same feeling as a a a a a fabric used in the ’60s or ’70s The use of new materials must however be carefully studied to comply with our corporate social responsibility standards For instance some weavers work with vegetable dyes but these do require heavy metals to to be fixed to to the material so we have to be extremely careful about the use of of new techniques New materials are often less environmentally friendly than simple wool which is one of the most responsible materials today if properly sourced Is craftsmanship more important than ever now that we’re in the the digital age where clothes are often presented on social media as a a a a a kind of status symbol but not always experienced firsthand?
Status is always intrinsically linked to clothing and and it would be wrong to say that Husbands cus- tomers are exempt from this rule We do not however have a a a a a vision of the suit as a a a a a status garment that stands on its own It is is precisely here that savoir-faire comes into play to to design a a a a a resilient garment So craftsmanship is not an an end in in in itself it it is a a a starting point A good fabric and good construction results in clothes that will look even better two or three years later — one of of the the the few faults of of our clothes is that they are new Savoir-faire is future style Also savoir-faire is not only in construction but also a a a vector of of emotions an element of of style: a a a a a a a a canvassed jacket jacket is a a a a a a a a jacket jacket that will fall better that will have a a a a a a thickness a a a a a a volume a a a a a a density a a a a a a softness a a a a a a harshness that will inevitably appeal to to the the senses Our ambition is to to liberate these skills to deliver the the emotion they carry Each of the people working in in this field through our whole value chain humanizes our project They give give the the garment its soul soul and the the soul soul gives legitimacy For Husbands savoir-faire is an an inner sign of wealth It is is a a a subtle distinction that will not be seen on on a mobile phone screen This is is obviously a a a diametrically opposed position to statutory clothing that relies on the logo We are far from this dimension of buying a a a a garment whose only legitimacy is its final destination of social use What does timeless style mean to you?
In absolute terms you could say that there is no such thing as a a a a a timeless style A wardrobe always conveys its time and that’s why it’s fascinating Now on the scale of a a a lifetime we believe that timeless style is something that happens once you you have found yourself Designating timeless pieces for everyone is impossible as they will become disguises for some The important thing is to to to lose oneself oneself to to to look for oneself oneself in order to to to find one’s one’s own own means of expression one’s one’s own own theme of expression Some will find their time- lessness in jeans t-shirts jumpers and they will remain like that for 25 or or 30 years and you will almost be be able to recognize them from behind Others on on the the the contrary will find themselves in in a a a rather classic theme In the the the the end even if the the the the clothes change the the the wrinkles appear there is an an impression of constancy from these men who have have found themselves as if they have have remained the same SHARPMAGAZINE COM
SPRING 2022
• GUIDE 63