Page 53 - S Fall 2024
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Tiffany & Co. has long set the standard for fine jewellery, having
first released its annual Blue Book catalogue in 1845. This year’s edition takes inspiration from the work of one of the brand’s most notable designers, Jean Schlumberger, whose whimsical creations led the way for mid-century jewellery trends.
Tiffany Céleste draws from Schlumberger’s archival designs and sketches—with a twist fit for the heavens. The collection comprises six suites that touch on the sky, stars, astrology, and celestial mythology: Apollo, Arrow, Constellation, Ray of Light, Iconic Star, and Wings.
When setting out to design the Blue Book, Tiffany’s chief gemologist and vice president of diamond and gemstone Acquisition, Victoria Reynolds, and artistic director Nathalie Verdeille begin planning year in advance.
“Believe it or not, these stones that I purchased were purchased about two and a half years ago,” said Reynolds.
Knowing that they planned to emulate the skies, the two created a mood board with various blues, pinks, and fiery reds. To find the ideal tones, Reynolds sought out less-traditional gemstones such as star sapphires and spinels—while still incorporating the flawless diamonds Tiffany is known for. The Constellation suite includes blue and star sapphires, as well as a unique pink sapphire ring—a colour scheme reminiscent of cotton- candy sunsets. Tiffany gemologists reviewed more than 1,000 sapphire stones before making their final selection.
The cut of these gems and painstaking attention to detail elevate each design. For the Arrow suite, Tiffany artisans created custom-cut shapes
to mimic the look of an arrow tip, while maintaining movement and comfort for the wearer. Made with spectacular, unenhanced Colombian emeralds, the suite borrows elements of Schlumberger’s 1941 Trophée de Vaillance brooch design. The geometric patterns in the emerald ring evoke Schlumberger’s fringe motifs.
“There’s nothing left unconsidered. Everything from the cut of the gemstones to just the actual execution of it,” said Reynolds.
Subtle details make an impact, such as the yellow gold setting of the spinels in the Ray of Light suite, warming up the bright reds and adding to the suite’s imagery of sun beams. A standout from this suite is a returning design that converts from a necklace to a tiara.
Taking the blueprints of the Jean Schlumberger by Tiffany Apollo brooch, designers deconstructed and reimagined the silhouette for the Apollo suite, with glittering pavé diamonds sparkling around Tiffany’s iconic yellow and white diamonds.
The Wings suite offers the ultimate nod to Schlumberger, with wing motifs found throughout his work. Inspired by the mythology of Pegasus, each item is crafted to look like the wings of the flying horse. Small engravings create the appearance of feathers wrapped around luminous diamonds and sapphires.
For the Iconic Star suite, free-form aquamarines are nestled between five-point stars—based on an archival Schlumberger sketch—capturing the night sky.
Reynolds says each item requires fierce dedication and attention to detail from every designer and jeweller working on the Blue Book—she joked that the custom cut of each individual diamond “nearly killed” her team. The collaborative effort is what leads to the standout pieces synonymous with Tiffany & Co.
“We’re both proud of the jewellers, and I think it is collaboration at its finest,” said Reynolds. “I think that’s the way Schlumberger always approached jewellery as well. He was the visionary.”
CONSTELLATION: ring in platinum and 18K yellow gold with an unenhanced pink sapphire of over 25 carats and diamonds.
ICONIC STAR: bracelet in platinum and 18k yellow gold with a blue zircon of over 25 carats, aquamarines, mother-of-pearl, and diamonds.
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