Page 180 - Chapter 3 - Laser/IPL Hair Removal

Chapter 3 – Fundamentals of Laser/IPL Hair Removal 2nd Edition
Well, we can work this out knowing the skin colour and the applied fluence. As discussed previously, the Fitzpatrick Scale does not determine skin colour (contrary to popular belief!!). In fact, the Fitzpatrick Scale simply looks at the skin’s response to ultraviolet light energy and what that exposure may do. But we can use another method to precisely determine the colour. Using data from an American scientist, Steve Jacques, we can determine the ‘colour’ of the skin by specifying the concentration of melanin in the epidermis (see Figure 5).
We use the same numbering system as the Fitzpatrick Scale since this is very familiar to many people. But, as we can see, if you go on holiday and come back with a tan, your melanin concentration will increase – changing your ‘skin colour’. However, your Fitzpatrick number does NOT change!!
Table 36 – Skin colour versus melanin concentration
So, having now defined the actual skin colour, how can we calculate the risk of injuring the epidermis with light energy.
Skin colour
Melanin concentration
1 2 3 4
Up to 10% 10-16% 16-23% 23-33%
5 6
33-43% >43%
1 00
90
80
70
60
50
40
30
20
10
0
Ale xan dr it e Diode
IPL (averaged) Nd:YAG
Risk of epidermal skin damage
123456 Skin Colour
Risk %
Figure 101 – Risk of epidermal skin damage for the four hair removal devices
________________________________________________________________________ 180 Chapter 3, Ed. 2.0 Laser/IPL Hair Removal
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