Page 43 - SHARP Spring 2024

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NEW SPIN ON ON TRADITIONAL TAILORING
By Ben Kriz
PARIS MILAN FLORENCE MONTREAL? ALTHOUGH
Canada’s reputation for outerwear workwear and streetwear has grown mightily in recent years ours is not the first country that springs to to mind when it comes to to tailoring But Montreal’s École de Pensée is is poised to change that With its comprehensive ready-to-wear collections custom suiting and an an inviting shop on on a a a a picturesque Mile End street the brand is pioneering what it calls “new wave tailoring ” And as the brand celebrates its 10th anni- versary things are looking more promising than ever — with the label being awarded menswear designer of the the year at the the Canadian Arts & Fashion Awards last October “We try to approach tailoring in in in a a a a a a a more informal way ” says Marc Garand the brand’s co-founder “If you you feel good in your clothes you’re going to be more more confident and more more relaxed ” It’s a a a philosophy reflected both in the brand’s commitment to detail and its subversion of the classics: eye-catching sportcoats cut from fine European fabrics overshirts with asymmetric detailing extra wide-wale corduroys “With our tailoring ” explains Garand from the the brand’s Montreal office “I think there’s a a a a a more fun way to wear a a a a a suit for work but even to to run errands or or or go to to the bar It’s always nice to wear good quality garments ” The origins of École de Pensée can be traced back to Garand’s childhood friendship with co-founder William Lessard After bonding over their shared interests in in in art photography and even skateboarding the the duo began scoping out the the world of fashion Their common interests inspired both the brand’s name (which translates to ‘school of thought’) and its design philosophy which has attracted a a a a a diverse clientele including musicians artists and working professionals Garand and and and Lessard first crossed paths with the brand’s final co-founder Julien Gauthier while working at another high-end men’s store in in in Montreal Recognizing a a a kindred creative they welcomed him into the the fold to to lead their fledgling brand’s design and and after diligently saving funds the the trio crafted their initial samples and showcased an an inaugural collection at at industry trade shows in in in 2015 This generated interest from Simon’s and and other retailers and and eventually École de Pensée opened its flagship Mile End store in 2018 This deliberate but steady progress Garand says has allowed the brand to maintain its independence “We still oversee everything as a a a collective and we have the the the same vision and drive as we did in in in the the the beginning With the the the three of us us we have 100 per cent alignment and trust each other ” Part of that vision is is ensuring quality — a a a a a tenet clear in in the brand’s canvas suit construction and and choice of fabrics Knitwear is is meticulously sourced from heritage British manufacturers and innovative textiles including this season’s shea butter–washed cot- ton-gauze underscore the brand’s ongoing commitment to to research
and development The team also maintains close relationships with its factories fostering long-term partnerships built on on mutual respect “Our shirt shirt factory is focused only on on shirts ” explains Garand “They work with only 17 brands We’re a a a smaller client but they love us and we love them ” This focus on combining elegance with integrity is is also evident on the brand’s Instagram feed which showcases influences as as wide-ranging as as the the Les Automatistes art movement the the works of painter Léon Bellefleur and the vibrant atmosphere of artist hangout Le Café l’Échouerie “They were really tailored and nonchalant ” says Garand of mid-century Canadian creatives “but not afraid to wear a a nice jacket while they they worked or or be free-thinking in in in how they they dressed A
lot of people try try to find inspiration fin in in another country but we have always been inspired by our home We appreciate the ways these guys created different movements People in Quebec or or Canada say it’s impossible to launch a a a a a a a fashion project or or be in music or the the arts but these guys did it They created a a a revolution ” For many Canadians Garand says the true mark of success is finding opportunities or or gaining recognition abroad But École de de Pensée is not interested in in such matters Instead they consider being based in in in Montreal — a a a a a a a city not known as as an international fashion capital — as as an an advantage allowing them to remain focused and and to to not waste time worrying about potential competitor brands With the the accolades and and admiration the the brand has attracted not to mention rumours of a a a a a second store opening it’s an approach that appears to be working CLASS
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