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f i i ' * %u25a0* ' *4 %u25a0{ - * %u2022%u00bb * i * . %u00bb * 4 * $ f %u00ab %u00bb r * %u2018 * * 4 4 * * %u00ab , * f ( V f , %u2666 ;. * * * t %u00bb * , t t t < r e 4 t l t 4 j %u00a3( < < %u00ab H * i H U t t %u00ab %u00bb < M M H i < < i HPeople,Places,and PicksA ll A round T h e T o w nMays%u2019Gourmet SectionBY MARTHA DOGGETTGetting tired of Log Cabin on your Sunday morning flapjacks? How does the idea of wild raspberry syrup from Germany grab you? Or what about boysenberry topping from California%u2019s Knott%u2019s Berry Farm? And if you prefer the sweet taste of honey mingled with melting butter, what about %u201c hydrated bear grease%u2014warms you when you hunt bare (sic)?%u201dThe syrups, along with a variety of otherforeign and domestic delicacies, are in thegourmet section of May%u2019s DepartmentStore. Located on the store%u2019s first floor, theshop is a convenient place to pick up thoseprepackaged specialty items that might not be available in the grocery store.%u201c1 think travel is one of the factors thatmost affects peoples%u2019 tastes,%u201d says buyerOscar Samuels, who has worked for May%u2019sfor lb years. 'They come home and wantto get the things they%u2019ve been tasting onvacation. Like German pastry or TwiningsTea. They ask for brand names they havegotten to know and like.%u201dThe department abounds with foreignspecialties, especially European. Manywho have traveled to Denmark will ,behappy to find Limfjord Caviar and richbutter cookies. One can find mixes (anAmerican addition) to make spaetzle''(Swiss dumplings) and fondue. Or FrankCooper%u2019s %u201cOxford%u201d Marmalade with Contreau to enjoy on Carr%u2019s Table WaterCraquelines (British crackers) with a cup ofCreme de Menthe tea.%u201c Biscuits are our most importantdepartment,%u201d says Samuels. %u201cThey%u2019re akind of luxury. Women come in with theirfamilies, with their husbands, and theypick up a few extras above and beyond thehousehold budget.%u201dSamuels, who emigrated from Polandafter World War II, says he has workedwith food since he was 15. \food. I come from a big family. Having abig family means that kids have to startearning money right away. In Poland youhad to apprentice for three years withoutpay to enter the retail trade. So I startedimmediately with a food wholesale andretail firm,%u201d Samuels said.He went to work for WaldbaumsSupermarkets less than four weeks after hecame to the United States, and nine yearslater joined Mays. %u201cThe food departmentwas very small when I started to workhere,%u201d he said. \small table and the company wanted tobuild it up. We%u2019ve expanded a lot and nowhave food departments in seven of oureight stores.%u201d Samuels buys for all sevendepartments and visits each weekly.%u201cThe natural foods category is one of our fastest growing sections. People are beginning to check the ingredients in everything. I see them picking up things to check for preservatives,%u201d Samuels says. The department includes Swiss muesli (a dry granola-like breakfast cereal), whole wheat fiour, and nooaies, ana natural peanut butter.%u201c We%u2019re very busy now ordering for the holiday season,%u201d Samuels concludes. %u201c At Christmas we add special gift cheese sets, fruitcake, plum pudding, and an Italian coffee cake called Pannettone.%u201dnr Linus ujulmukNext time you%u2019re trundling your grocery cart down the aisle wondering why the detergent has to be all the way in the back next to the salami, think of the plight your local supermarket manager, who has to put all that stuff there in the first place.Artie Magurno, who lives somewhere between the pickled tomatoes and marshmallows in Park Slope%u2019s Pioneer Supermarket at 114 7th Avenue, says that foods are arranged generally by category, miscellaneous items %u201cwhere they fit in.%u201d The Pioneer manager denies that, as more cynical shoppers have suggested, psychology is the motivating force in arranging foods. Rather, he says, it is space.%u201c Running a supermarket is very challenging,%u201d Magurno boasts. %u201c Every there%u2019s something. Every day, what don%u2019t expect to happen happens.%u201dMostly the daily crises are sick cash and on-the-blink refrigeration units, there are exotic calamities: %u201c Aw, a but( cut himself on a knife,%u201d he counts off, a produce man cutting vegetables, someone could get a hernia picking u box the wrong way.Especially if it%u2019s a of tomatoes or paper. That stuff is heav Several thousand dollars come in and of Magurno's Pioneer branch in a gi day, and at the end of the week Magu sends out mammoth orders to Pione food warehouses. Pricing and sales, explains, are central Pioneer policy d sions: %u201c Except branch specials. Bra specials, we work at random%u2014we just 1 it out to the shelves at our own prices, usually go by what moves well, and ho goes, what the people like. Like recen we had a sale on mayonnaise%u2014you kn the imitation stuff?%u2014and we had a wl lot of it still left on the shelves. We%u2019ll jkeep the sale going till it moves.%u201dAs for traditional shoppers%u2019 fears%u2014 instance, that the store will put an item %u201c sale%u201d without changing the pric Magurno insists that suspicions unfounded. He doesn%u2019t do it.Leaning across the counter where he survey Pioneer%u2019s $90,000 stock and k tabs on his staff of 25, he says, %u201c This good store. We%u2019re very straight v people. We try to keep everybody happ%u201c Running a supermarket is very challenging,%u201d Pioneer manager ArtieMagurno boasts. %u201c Every day there%u2019s something.%u201dSu-Su's Yum Yum now feturss executive chef Yung-Fu, the one timeculinary artist for Obtang Kai-Shek.Chef Yung-Fu:Su-Su%u2019s SpecialtyBY JEANNETTE WALLSHow would you like to eat ChiangKai-shek%u2019s favorite dish? Or dine as HenryKissinger does when he goes abroad?Well, thanks to a new fixture in anestablished Chinese restaurant, you can.And you don%u2019t have to travel pastBrooklyn Heights; nor pay an emperor%u2019sransom to eat like one.Yung-fii is the new executive chef atSu-Su%u2019s Yum Yum Restaurant, 60 HenryStreet. His 40 years of training in the art ofChinese cuisine have led to his servingdignitaries such as Chiang Kai-shek andKissinger in notable spots such as HongKong%u2019s Grand Hotel.A man who seems precise and sensitive,Yung-fu has lived in this country only fourmonths, bringing with him Eastern customs. Shying away from the camera, forinstance, he explained, %u201cIt%u2019s an ancientChinese tradition.%u201dBut here the chefs English halts him.Su-Su%u2019s owner Thomas Hsu carries on forhis employee, translating that photographsare believed to affect the soul.Every morning finds Yung-fu shoppingin Brooklyn Heights for fruits andvegetables for that day%u2019s fare. And the soysauce he uses, aged at least a decadecomes from none other than the People%u2019Republic of China.The immigrant winces at the thought < f monosodium glutamate, an additive used by many a Chinese restaurant but frequently thought to obscure the flavor of foods.In the kitchen%u2014kept open for patrons towatch the cooks in action%u2014-Yung-fu works methodically. But his hands are a blur.All o f hi*; rrpatinne pvpyi thr%u00bbc^ nnppprepared for the elite in the Orient, cost $7.95. Parties of two or m ore should make reservations, at 522-4351.(P ssst%u2014 in ca se you want to eat \other half d o c s ,%u201d Yung-fu con fid es thatK issin g er%u2019s favorite dish is oran ge duck.Chiang K ai-sh ek 's passion ? Fik o f so le.)Artie Magurno: Pioneer ManagerNovember 16 t%u00a3i78. THE PHOENIX, Prf