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H o l i d a y S e a s o n F o o dIt%u2019s difficult to imagine having bear chops for Monday night supper, but recipes that combine the flavor of meats with fruits and vegetables, and sometimes a touch of wine or brandy, make elegant holiday fare.in cabbage, or for this recipe in grape leaves (available in the Mid-Eastern grocery stores on Atlantic Avenue).A recipe for saddle of reindeer, the large deer found in the northern and artic regions of Europe and America, is appropriately from Norway and entitled Saddle of Reindeer in a Norwegian Wild Sauce. The recipe comes from KolbeinQUAIL A LA FOFFE(serves 2) by Alfred Foffe4 quail, split in half (wipe inside with towel; do not wash.)l4 cup pork belly, sliced thinly'-2 cup butter2 scallions, cut in inch slices3 shallots, thinly sliced4 mushroom caps, thinly sliced1 tablespoon Foffe black currant jelly, orcup Marsala wine or sherryH cup flourIn a stainless steel frying pan (about 10 around), saute pork belly in butter until golden.Add scallions, shallots and mushrooms; saute until golden. Skim out scallions, mushrooms and shallots and place on a plateSeason quail with salt and freshly ground black pepper and dredge in flour.Saute quail in frying pan for 5 minutes on one side, and 3 minutes on the other.Pour scallions, mushrooms and shallots over quail along with currant jelly (wine or sherry).Cook fot minute. Serve with wild rice and mushroom caps.SMITHFIELD HAM Cooking instructions by Jim MaraldoSmithfield Ham (10 to 12 lbs.)Soak ham in cold w ater for 12 hours; if a less salty taste is preferred, soak for 24 hours (change water after 12 hours).Wash ham , scrubbing off mold.Cook ham in large pot shin side down in gently simmering water to cover for 25 minutes per pound. If water evaporates, add more warm water to cover.When done, remove shin bone and excess fat, while still warm.To glaze, score the ham lengthwise and crosswise and dot with cloves; spread with brown sugar and bake in 400 degree oven for 20 minutes.Waag, (he chef for (he Veranda Restaurant, 268 Clinton Street. Reindeer and lingonberries, native to Scandanavia and sometimes called mountain cranberries (cranberries may be substituted in this recipe) may be found in the Norwegian neighborhoods of Bay Ridge.WHAT IS A SMITHFIELD HAMPork, was another important food inROASTSQUABA LA LIMOUSINby Karen Hubert6 squab, cleaned inside and out (Inside should be rubbed with salt and fresh pepper. Separate livers from giblets, necks and h earts.)H lb. mushrooms (separate stems from caps)2 stalks celery, finely chopped4 shallots, finely chopped3-4 cups fresh chicken or veal broth (Cook giblets, necks, hearts from squab for 30 minutes to give the stock a little game fjavor.)2 c u d s cooked wild rice (should be cookedin a broth 11 For substitute, use French bread dipped in heavy cream .)butter4* cup heavy creamgrape leaves, preferably Californianwhite wine, vermouth, or MadeiraSaute chopped mushroom stems, celery, and shallots in butter until golden brown. Add cream and reduce until absorbed. Add chopped squab liver. Set aside.Add vegetables to wild rice; mix. Add to taste one or more tablespoons of wine, vermouth, or if you prefer a sweeter stuffing, Madeira.Season with 1 \Provence (or a mixture of thyme, savory, pinch of rosemary and fennel)Stuff squab. Close flaps to keep stuffing in.(Wooden toothpicks can be used.)Brown squab well in butter on all sides in heavy skillet.Take two grape leaves and drape over each squab, pulling wings out over grape leaves, tor decoration.Place piece of Panceta, Proscuito, or bacon on top of breast and tuck under wings.Using roasting pan, braise in fresh chicken or veal broth thickened withUsing roasting pan, braise i in 375degree oven for 45 m inutes) in fresh chicken or veal broth thickened with roux (2 tablespoons butter, 4 tablespoons flour) to which mushroom caps have been added.early American settlements. The Food Book states that as early as 1639, American settlers were exporting hams and bacon to England. %u201c Just over two centuries later Queen Victoria placed an order of six hams a week to come from Smithfield.%u201d In 1926, so many imitation Smithfield hams were being marketed that the Virginia General Assembly enacted a statute stating that %u201c %u2018genuine Smithfield hams are those cut from the carcasses of peanut-fed hogs, raised in the peanut-belt of the Sate of Virginia or the State of North Carolina and processed in the town of Smithfield, in theState of Virginia...........Today,\Maraldo, \Virginia law to produce Smithfield hams, a sort of%u2018appellation controllc%u2019 arc Gualtney, Lutcrs, V.W. Joyner, and Smithfield Ham & Products Co.\Smithfield hams generally run from 10-12 pounds and make a simple but delicious meal for large numbers of diners, (some shops will sell half a ham for those whose guest lists are below the dozen mark.)A SUNDAY%u2019S DINNERPig%u2019s head, another pork speciality, also weighs between 10 and 12 pounds and serves a whole family, and then some. It is difficult to find a recipe; even the versatile \provide any information. %u201c Young people won't touch it today,%u201d says Frank Esposito of G. Esposito%u2019s Pork Store, %u201cbut years ago it would be Sunday dinner.\reconstructed the method his father used to cook pig%u2019s head; since it is a family recipe passed along by word of mouth and experience, no exact amounts are given. First of all, Esposito says, have the butcher open and crack the pig head and remove the brains which can be parboiled for 10 to 15 minutes, and after the skin is removed, served as a hors d%u2019oeuvre with salt, pepper, and lemon juice. Parboil the cracked pig%u2019s head for at least two hours; discard the water. Parboil some greens%u2014 mustard, collard, or cabbage%u2014for about 20 to 30 minutes, or until halfway done; retain water. Also parboil some variety of bean, black-eyed, pinto, kidney, until almost done, or about an hour; save this liquid. Combine the liquids from beans and greens, plus vegetables and pig's head, and cook all together for about 1/2 hour, or until meat is tender. Seasonings are salt, pepper, and garlic. You may be surprised to discover that there is an abundance of meat on a pig%u2019s head.Holidays often become excuses for extravagant cooking. Why not make the weeks ahead times of exploration and experimentation as well.chicken at Carroll Live PoultryMarket. (Feldman Photo)SOME SOURCES FORFRESH POULTRY AND GAMECarrol Live Poultry Market, 209 Third Ave., Tues.-Sat., 7-4;45p.rn., Turkeys, chickens, ducks geese, guinea hens, rabbits.TheBerk Lombardo Pkg. Co., 175 Ft. Greene PI., Mon.-Fri., 7-4p.m., Sat., 6-2 p.m., Frozen geese, ducks, rabbit; will order pheasant and goat.G. Esposito Pork Store, 357 Court St., Mon.-Sat., 9:30-6:30p.m. Will order suckling pig, pig head.I-a Primavera, 158A Berkeley PI. Tues.- Sat., 8:30-7p.rn., Sun., 8:30-2p.m. Will order venison, suckling pig, rabbit, quail, partridge, pheasant, wild boar, wild turkey.Fredickson & Johannesen Meats 7719 Fifth Ave., mon.-Sat., 8-6p.tn. Will order reindeer.Quail a la Foffe is an easy, quick recipe for an elegant, festive meal.November 15, 1979, The PHOENIX, Page 11