Page 41 - foodservice news magazine Nov-Dec 2018

PRODUCE
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access to what is being caught and grown, transparency across the supply chain is only a ‘follow’ or ‘like’ away.
Luxury and seafood, two words not found in the same sentence for many decades, are now common parlance on menus across the country.
Caviar, once an expensive product of dubious provenance and history, has become a marquee of celebration in the same way as truffles or good Champagne. Lead by a next generation of genuine caviar experts, like Lisa Downs of Simon Johnson and Nick Gorman of Yarra Valley Caviar, chefs are learning to identify excellence in the caviar they purchase and how to give their customer the best experience. Thanks to the tireless enthusiasm of these caviar growers, the quality of both the caviar and its service at many Australian restaurants is as good an experience as can be found anywhere in the world.
In a further exciting development in
the luxury seafood sector, driven in part
by a shortage in supply, 2018 has seen an explosion in the level of interest and demand
“From the perspective of food fashions, 2018 has been a year of consolidation. The ever-increasing supply of restaurant seats has created competition that has never existed before. Diminishing profits in the hospitality industry have driven up menu prices which increasingly drive diners away.”
for premium-quality oysters. Be it cause or effect, consumers are rightfully demanding value for the $3, $4 or $5 per piece they are paying for oysters. They want to know not just the species and season, but the region and even grower. Shucking-to-order has become a given. The oyster industry is rushing to keep up with this demand, with grower groups such as Appellation Oysters building definable quality standards from water to plate.
There is also a renaissance of premium- quality, cured and smoked seafood. The ‘world’s best’ bottarga is produced by the fishmonger and chef collaboration of Costa Nemitsas from Southern Fresh and Giovanni Pilu, owner and chef of his eponymous Sydney restaurant Pilu at Freshwater. Premium-cured and smoked salmon is
now produced over an eight-day, smoking marathon by retired fish savant Steve Hodges.
2018 has been an exciting year in Australian seafood. I want to encourage everyone to continue to celebrate what we
do with seafood here. Don’t be fooled by the jingoism demanding legislation to ensure you nominate the country of origin of the seafood you use is on your menu, with the threat
of vilification or fines if you don’t. Proudly encourage your fishmonger to encourage
his suppliers to maintain their enthusiasm, commitment and drive for excellence.
It’s exhilarating times for seafood
in Australia as excellence becomes the standard and the industry comes of age. Again in the words of Chanel, “Fashion changes, but style endures.”