Page 42 - foodservice Magazine July 2019

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PRODUCE
LIQUID GOLD
OIL AND VINEGAR ARE EASILY OVERLOOKED AS RUDIMENTARY INGREDIENTS, AND ARTIFICIAL ADDITIVES AND CHEAP PROCESSES OFTEN CLOUD THE MARKETPLACE. BUT AS HEAD CHEF AT MELBOURNE’S FATTO JAMES KUMMROW EXPLAINS, THE RIGHT OIL OR VINEGAR CAN DETERMINE AND BACK THE FLAVOUR OF ANY DISH.
While working at Michelin-starred the Vineyard at Stockcross in the UK, executive chef John Campbell would always remind us that flavour is broken down into five distinct categories. Increasing or decreasing these elements
not only creates harmony in the dish, but works as a natural flavour enhancer. If we consider sweet, bitter, salty, sour and savoury or umami as the building blocks of a dish, the use of oils and vinegars can manipulate the flavour profile. For example, Forum Cabernet Sauvignon vinegar from Spain, which is produced as a byproduct of wine, is aged for eight years and sweetened with 30 per cent grape juice, reducing the acidity to
a low 6.5 per cent. Adding this bittersweet product to a slow-cooked lamb ragu will increase the levels of sour and sweet, giving
it a sharp kick that will lift it to new heights. This glossary of my favourite oils and vinegars shows just how much flavour variaty is out there.
BALSAMIC VINEGAR
My favourite vinegar currently is “La Vecchia Dispensa – balsamic vinegar of Modena 30 year anniversary”. What makes it unique is the ageing process. It’s left to mature and naturally thicken to a specific density, rather than a set age. The finished product has a density of 1.35 kilograms per litre and acidity of 6 per cent, which
is achieved over a period of approximately 12 years. Good things come to those who wait. Splash some balsamic vinegar over
some strawberries for dessert; a few drops on a chocolate pudding; or even to vanilla gelato to add a kick.
APPLE CIDER VINEGAR
This vinegar is terrific for pickling thanks to its relatively low acidity ratio and a diverse flavour profile. Apple cider vinegar is used to preserve because its high pH level inhibits the growth of bacteria.
RICE WINE VINEGAR
This is a staple in many Asian cuisines, made by fermenting the sugars in rice first into alcohol and then into acid. Rice wine vinegar forms a sturdy base for many dressings, Vietnamese nuoc mam with fish sauce, lime sugar, garlic and chilli being my favourite.
CHAMPAGNE VINEGAR
Best used in vinaigrettes and dressings, the sharpness of Champagne vinegar will stand up to a strong flavoured olive oil without completely losing its original fruit flavour.
EXTRA VIRGIN OLIVE OIL
Having cooked Italian cuisines for more than 15 years, I’ve tasted a lot of olive oils. The best advice I can give is to source a product that’s fresh and local. Regardless of what people tell you, olive oil is best used within 12 months of production. Mount Zero’s Frantoio Extra Virgin Olive Oil is the most consistent and balanced product available to me, and it’s an easy sell after seeing first hand the amount of care and passion that goes into it.
WALNUT OIL
While walnut oil comes with an acquired taste, it has great potential. Once it makes its way into the pastry kitchen, there’s
no looking back. The earthy flavour
lends itself well to splitting the sauce of a crème caramel.
If we consider sweet, bitter, salty, sour and savoury or umami as the building blocks of a dish, the use of oils and vinegars can manipulate the flavour profile. Increasing or decreasing these elements not only creates harmony in the dish, but works as a natural flavour enhancer.
AVOCADO OIL
This oil is a great substitute in olive oil cake, and is often sought after for its health benefits and beauty applications. If you do use it for sautéeing, keep the temperature of the pan low to medium, as high temperatures will reduce the oil’s health benefits.
COCONUT OIL
Unlike avocado oil, this has a high smoke point like vegetable or canola oil and can stand up to intense heat. At home we keep a jar on the shelf for additions to vegetarian and vegan sweets in place of butter.