Page 33 - The Pocket Guide to Equine Knots
P. 33

tracks near your horse trailer?)
     All young horses should be equipped with a stout halter, then halter trained in the hands

  of someone both strong and understanding. I don’t halter train by pulling straight forward on
  the colt’s head—that only encourages him to pull back against the pressure. Instead I stand
  to his side and simply take the slack out of the lead rope. He’s uncomfortable with his nose
  restricted and moved slightly sideways, and sooner or later he figures out that he can make
  his  own  slack  by  easing  toward  me.  I  reward  him  verbally,  and  then  take  the  slack  out

  again.  Soon  he  understands  that  comfort  comes  with  compliance  with  the  pressure,  and
  he’s halter broke.
     Further, as described earlier, I teach the colt to give each foot, leading him by each in

  turn. When he’s that far along, understanding he’s to give to pressure either from the halter
  or from the foot, he should be tied up to something solid, tied up fairly high (no lower than
  natural nose level), and with a short rope (with perhaps three to four feet of lead). Tying
  high  takes  away  the  colt’s  leverage,  tending  to  make  his  hind  legs  slip  up  under  him.
  Always,  though,  I  tie  with  a  quick-release  knot.  Very  few  horses  struggle  very  long,

  because it’s uncomfortable for them. After a time or two they normally accept being tied up,
  and that’s that.























                                              Tie high and fairly short for safety.


  Types of Halters

  A “breakaway” system, tying with weak reins rather than lead rope, or tying to something
  flimsy  can  “unlearn”  (“extinguish”  is  the  psychological  term)  this  training.  Also,  early  in
  training, a horse might spook and inadvertently break a weak halter or lead rope. If odds

  seem good this might happen, it’s probably best to use the very strongest setup available,
  which is a halter and lead rope with no hardware whatsoever. The modern synthetic rope
  tied halters are incredibly strong. Add a strong lead rope either hitched to the loop on the
  halter with a half hitch on the pre-tied loop (which creates a sheet bend, as discussed on
  page 18) or attached via an eye splice, and you eliminate all metal snaps or buckles that

  could conceivably break.
     Of  these,  I  like  using  a  lead  rope  with  an  eye  splice  best,  because  it’s  so  easily
  removable. To attach, simply slip the eye splice through the halter loop, and then bring the

  end  of  the  lead  rope  back  through  the  eye  splice,  pulling  the  whole  rope  through.  If  you
  prefer  to  ride  with  the  lead  rope  attached,  this  makes  a  nice,  compact,  and  light
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