Page 38 - 2020 AMA Summer

MISCARTICLE
good as Gerakopetra actually, with over fifty sports routes between F4 and F7c+. Just that bit more serious. If you are really old, and remember back when the British were at the forefront of climbing in Cyprus, you will have know this as Johnson’s Rocks, a trad crag. Sadly that is all in the past, and everything is now bolted. The two main areas are either side of a sort of unusual rocky cleft; the Main Slab on one side [F4 – F5c] and the Main Wall on the right [F6a – F7b+, with most routes at the upper end]. The other routes are scattered around various smaller walls. The Main Slab routes can have bottom ropes set up by walking up around to the left, a rarity in Cyprus. Again, the bolting is well done [thanks to the Cyprus Bolt Fund; why doesn’t the military contribute?!]. There is also a bolted anchor at the top for teaching abseiling. The Main Slab gets the sun first thing, and then gradually moves into the shade. The Main Wall is in shade for most of the day. The crag gets very busy, especially at weekends, with packs of local climbers [this is a roadside crag]; expect instructors to take up the easier routes in bulk, unless you get there early. Have a go at Parthena F5b, Katsufis F5b and Kalitechnis [given F6a in the guide, but widely felt to be F6a+], all three stars again.
Episkopi. Its Epskopi Jim, but not as we know it! A new area close to Paphos, next to the village of Episkopi, which is not the same as the town which gives the Episkopi SBA its name. TBH I haven’t been there, but going by the descriptions at www.kyriakosrossidis.com it is an up and coming climbing area, with stacks of potential. More than thirty sports routes from F6a upwards. To make the most of it, you really need to be climbing upwards
of F6c.
TROODOS
So, the mountains of Troodos are high, volcanic [Gabbro anyone?], and get snow in Winter. They should offer excellent climbing, but sadly they don’t, except in two small areas [so far at least]. The rock elsewhere is [apparently] hugely interesting geographically [lots of pillow lavas for example...], but for whatever reason it just isn’t made for climbing on. However, the two crags which are up there are really worth visiting, with some very high quality sports routes.
Troodhitissa. Close to the monastery of the same name, I think that the rock here is gneiss, but can’t be certain. Whatever, it only has four routes, F5a, 5b, 5b and 5c, but they are all excellent, and the scenery [it is a in a small mini-valley with a waterfall and rock pools] is refreshingly different to elsewhere in Cyprus; extremely pleasant and much cooler than the plains below. Access is either by a track down from the road, or, better, by abseil from the National
Guard abseil platform, also reached from the road. The routes are all under the platform and are
I loved Pipistrellus, F5c, which gets your heart pumping, even though it is well bolted
well bolted. Each one is very different, and all are class. The left-most requires hand-jams, the second is excellent face climbing, the third starts with an overhanging layback, and the righthand route is more three-dimensional and slightly esoteric. Then you can swim in the stream. Winner!
Kakopetria. On the North side of the Troodos, and reached either by 4x4 [and a five minute walk] or by car [and half an hour walk], this is a big slab of Serpentine with overlaps and a scattering of tufas. Again, only seven routes, but all very different to the climbs elsewhere on the island, with great views, and well worth the time spent getting there. With grades from F5a to 6a+, progress depends on smears and small chicken heads in some pretty tenuous positions. I loved Pipistrel- lus, F5c, which gets your heart pumping, even though it is well bolted. A great wee
crag, and well worth the effort of getting there. High five to the people who found it. You almost certainly won’t see
anyone else.
38 / ARMY MOUNTAINEER