Page 19 - 2020 AMA Winter

it is an area that need works, consider adding some squats to your schedule. For working the whole posterior chain, deadlifts can also be used.
FINGERBOARD — STRENGTH
A portable fingerboard is a great way to build strength in the fingers and allows us to train at a high intensity without access to bouldering. Fingerboard strength protocols can be completed between 1 and 4 times a week depending on experience. For climbers operating at around V5 and 6c, I would suggest 1 or 2 sessions a week, with a very conservative approach to progression.
In order to make strength gains, we need to be completing a good volume of workload in each of our sessions, which means numerous sub maximal hangs. It’s important to recognise that whilst sub maximal, these hangs should still be at a very high intensity. Whilst it may seem counter intuitive that hangs should be sub maximal, it’s worth remembering that physiologically it should be impossible to complete numerous 100% max effort hangs.
To complete max hang protocols, we tend to be working at an intensity of ~90% of assessed max, or at an RPE (Rate of Perceived Exertion) of 8 or 9/10. By initially assessing our max strength, it allows us to be measured in our approach and calculate our 90% workload from this. However, we can also work to a given RPE and in doing so remove the need to complete initial max testing which can sometimes feel unsafe or a waste of valuable time.
FINGERBOARD – ENERGY SYSTEMS
Climbers typically see fingerboards as a great tool for gaining strength, but they can also be used to train all of our energy systems. Training energy systems on a fingerboard whilst on operations will be
Stretching out the Pectoralis
your saving grace, ensuring that you do not return to your project feeling incredibly strong, but unable to hang on for more than 1 or 2 moves!
If we are to look at our energy systems in the simplest fashion, we have two; the aerobic system and the anaerobic system.
Training of these energy systems would follow a 7:3 repeater protocol. In order to train the aerobic system, we would need to be working at an intensity of ~40% for a duration of 1-4 minutes per set. In order to train the anaerobic system, we would be working at an intensity of ~75% for a duration of 50-90 seconds per set. For more detail on these sorts of protocols, please visit the Crimpd App.
REDUCING OVERHEAD WORK
An issue with ‘off the wall’ training is that we don’t experience the wide range of movements that we typically do when climbing, and a lot of the workload becomes ‘overhead’. The repetitive nature of this workload means that we are at a high risk of injury, particularly in the shoulders and fingers. To reduce this injury risk, we can try and bring some of the workload below shoulder height.
Pinch blocks and edges are a great way to do this when training finger strength and energy systems.
AN EXAMPLE PLAN
Climbers typically train on a 3 week on, 1 week off cycle. This week off (or deload week) ensures adequate recovery and keeps us from overtraining. You can still do some training in this week, but drop the overall workload by about 50%.
Below is an example of how a training plan may look, for a climber on operations training 4 days a week. Please also allow time to warm up.
Having worked with many athletes, at Lattice we know that it is long term training cohesiveness that leads to steady progression. Before heading off on operations, have a think about what you want to achieve during your training time, and design a plan beforehand in order to achieve this goal. Even with limited time and facilities, if you are to stick to a well-considered plan, you can be confident that you will be in the best position possible when you get back on the rock.
Shoulder Rest + light Activations Mobility work
Monday
Tuesday
Wednesday
Thursday
Friday
Saturday
Sunday
Shoulder Pull Based Rest + light Shoulder Pull Based Activations Conditioning Mobility work Activations Conditioning
Max Strength FB Session
Push Based Conditioning
Anaerobic Capacity FB Session on Pinch Blocks
Push Based Conditioning
Aerobic Capacity FB Session
Aerobic Capacity FB Session
Core and Stability work
Core and Stability work
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