Page 21 - 2020 AMA Winter

was quickly apparent that a recce would be required.
Travelling to Nepal in late 2019, the expedition leader sought to both assess the physical undertaking, but also shape political enthusiasm toward granting a unique permit. Encouraging a joint Nepal-UK summit attempt through inclusion of IFMGA qualified Sherpas and British Gurkha soldiers relaxes strict policies around foreign summit attempts. Subsequently, at ministerial level, the expedition was granted free and sole permits for a number of mountains in the chosen region. The location remains withheld, simply because wider knowledge may enable other civilian teams to beat us to it!
Flying onto the high glacier below the Tibetan border allowed the expedition leader to both photograph and survey the challenge ahead. Recording GPS waypoints will aid the eventual foot insertion into the base and high camps, pertinent because of the lack of accurate mapping or satellite imagery. Thereafter, waypoints gathered from overflying the proposed route also allow for accurate pre-grading of the ascent. A manoeuvrist approach to understanding the kit and skill base required before the expedition. Ultimately it also allows more precise planning, thus reducing risk.
In short, the terrain is both exciting and challenging. Climbing from lush green valleys onto glacial moraine and boulder fields. Jammed behind a large spur, a long glacier leads to the base of a horseshoe, surrounded by a number of 6000m peaks. Rising steeply off the ice, open snowfields lead to a rocky step just below the summit. Straddling the border, the ridge is sharp and exposed. A true mix of all the alpine playgrounds.
Summit aside, the real strength of Himalayan Endeavour is the team; experienced and new alpinists, operating together, cultivating future talent. The untrained climbers were selected from over 300 applicants, entering a unique training pathway. Upon completion, the expedition will comprise of a single team (albeit split into further rope teams). Separate trekking and summit teams are an uncomfortable prospect; is it for mass participation, or, a great way of
providing more money and resources to the climbing team? As an Army, we have the resources to turn novice alpinists into climbing team members, it just takes a lot of time and effort. The initial planning estimate prioritised this, influencing the timeline, exactly like pre-deployment for new operations. Ignoring this leads to a continued reliance on the old-guard, something that fuels the endemic mili- tary-wide issue of not developing enough new talent. Countering this, junior team members have been afforded priority onto JSMTC courses, are building their personal logbooks under instructor guidance and are engaging with an online training programme (based around both physical development and technical knowledge). It is a demanding undertaking, but absolutely appropriate to both prepare and protect team members; providing a valuable apprenticeship into alpinism.
As mountaineers we are used to grafting on expedition and training trips, but for most of us, there is stagnation in between. A period where we feel the only way to train is by climbing as hard as possible or making ourselves suffer ruthless mountain conditions. In competitive sport, this methodology has been long abolished, favouring a balanced programme where there is less damage to the athlete outside of the actual race or event. Publications like Training for the New Alpinism1 are valuable aids to build modern programmes from. Training in this way allows the team to arrive ready to climb, peak upon return and avoid burnout. Of course, everyone
needs to know how to operate when they are cold, tired and scared, but these factors shouldn’t dictate how we train.
Originally forecast for Autumn 2020, the ongoing COVID-19 pandemic has delayed the start somewhat. That said, operating on the 6000ers can be done for many months of the year, bar the monsoon or deep winter. Thus, the planning was always flexible, never fixed. The current strategy sees a training expedition deploy late 20, with the main expedition in spring 21. Training under lockdown has had to be innovative; using online training programmes, zoom seminars and chat nets has maintained both skill development and team bonding. Although it doesn’t replace time on rock and ice, it certainly helps; the mere fact that all 30 team members are now friends is testament to their engagement.
Himalayan Endeavour will signify our return to Nepal post COVID-19 and lead a new-wave of alpinists into the pursuit we all love. In the words of the late-great David Lama, “Success, to me, doesn’t primarily mean reaching the summit, but living up to my own expectations”.
1 Training for the New Alpinism: A Manual for the Climber as Athlete, Steve House and Scott Johnson, Patagonia, 11 Mar 2014
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