Page 39 - 2020 AMA Winter
P. 39
THE ROCK CLIMBING
DEVELOPMENT
INSTRUCTOR
Matt Jones
The Rock Climbing Development Instructor (RCDI) Award is a relatively new Mountain Training (MT) award, aimed at bridging the vast gulf between Rock Climbing Instructor (RCI) and Mountaineering and Climbing Instructor (MCI). Experience requirements for the award are high in comparison to the military climbing awards; with a minimum of 60 VS 4C trad climbs and 60 6a sport ascents, in addition to a minimum of 20 days instruction as an RCI at a variety of venues with a variety of groups. Adding to this, a minimum of 90 trad VS 4c and above, and 90 6a and above sport climbs must be completed prior to being eligible for assessment. Entry to the RCDI scheme is by application, applicants must hold the RCI qualification. Obtaining the RCDI qualification permits teaching both
trad and sport climbing in the single pitch environment (in addition to RCI remit).
I was lucky enough to get a spot on a training course with one of the best in the business - Paul Smith (Rock and Water Adventures). Training lasted 4 days and took place in 5 venues from the Gower to the Forest of Dean. Although I’ve had plenty of practice as an RCI, I found RCDI to be a big step up; notably an RCDI is required to plan and deliver session with a far greater level of fidelity and individ- ualisation than I’ve been accustomed to as an RCI. This qualification is not just about teaching novices to lead, Paul emphasised that anyone wishing to improve their climbing may employ the services of an RCDI holder; from indoor climbers looking to become independent
outdoor climbers, to committed sport climbers wanting support to send their first 7b+ sport route.
I certainly felt a clear shift from instructing to more of a coaching mind-set. Paul was keen to stress that a rules-based approach to teaching is not appropriate at RCDI level, this was illuminated early during discussions around minimum requirements for gear and scoring system for gear in the belay; giving novices a minimum number of pieces of gear in the belay (rules) is the wrong approach, instead Paul highlighted the benefits of developing critical thinking, understand- ing, and decision making.
Understanding the specific needs of the client and matching them to a progressive activity was a theme throughout; central to this is the RCDI having a deep under- standing of the skills of both a trad and sport climber and be able to carry out fairly in depth analysis of a client’s need.
Day 1 of the course took us to Wyndcliff quarry where techniques for keeping ourselves safe while being belayed by novices were explored. A progressive approach to teaching novices to thread lower offs and teaching leading were also covered.
Day 2 took place at Shakemantle Quarry in the Forest of Dean, a fun morning on slabby E1/E2 grade routes looked at how extending quick daws could be used to ‘tone down’ the environment and ways to make the activity more progressive (this was certainly appreciated by this VS climber). Progressive approaches to teaching appropriate falling were also
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