Page 40 - 2020 AMA Winter

MISCARTICLE
covered. The afternoon saw a move to Plumphill Quarry where the applications of climbing in series and parallel were explored in the context of teaching novice climbers to lead trad.
Day 3 saw a day at the Gower on the beautiful Three Cliffs bay. Among the subjects covered were a progressive approach to teaching belaying from the top, and further development of the application of climbing in series and parallel from coaching in a trad perspective. Ascending a fixed line accompanying a novice trad climber was explored, sup- plemented by problem solving and rescue procedures.
Day 4 took place at Symonds Yat, this was a really interesting day. The main theme of the day was a progressive approach to teaching trad gear placement and building of belays. As had been the case with previous days, interesting and fun exercises for teaching progressively were evaluated and explored.
On completion of the course Paul worked with each client to produce an individual action plan. Most of the course content covered on the RCDI is not covered on MCI, so this would be very useful for those on the journey to that holy grail. RCDI’s are expected to work to the same standard as MCI’s albeit in a more limited environment/scope; to meet this standard
skills learnt at RCI need to be second nature to allow for room to carry out RCDI tasks. The course was fantastic from a development of personal climbing skills, and a logical next step for experienced RCI holders wanting to progress and obtain civilian climbing qualifications or teach friends and family in a progressive, fun and safe manner.
CIMA GRANDE
THE ROAD TO THE COMICI DIMAI
Steve Blake
The North Face of the Cima Grande is a monolith made for adventure. Despite the incredible increase in standards since Comici and the Dimai brothers completed the first ascent in 1933, any of the half dozen climbs on the face rarely disappoint. The length of the routes, unrelenting steepness, funky fixed equipment and the ever present possibility of a violent storm focus the mind and test your ability and experience. While the passage of time has tamed the Comici-Dimai somewhat, it remains a place where it could all still go horribly wrong, and for my generation of climbers it remains a very prized ascent.
THE HISTORY
I’d often wondered about the first ascent, but had never been able to find out much about it. David Smart’s outstanding
biography of Comici reveals all. The face was an obvious prize and whoever the first ascensionist was would benefit from the fame and notoriety its ascent would bring. This was of particular importance to local guides as it would increase their profile and bring in more clients.
The face’s first serious attempt was by Hans Steger and his wife Paula Wiesinger. A formidable couple who were responsible for a number of early grade VI climbs in the Dolomites. Despite their ability they only got as far as the third pitch. Steger would probably have been able to do this with a little aid, but either for style, or other practical reasons the pair retreated.
Another four attempts were made by other hopefuls, but these only managed
40 / ARMY MOUNTAINEER
Emilio Comici (centre) with the Dimai brothers after the FA of the Comici Dimai