Page 13 - 2019 AMA Winter
P. 13

                                       Traversing the Nadelgrat
open expanses of the Bernese Oberland. We returned to the Rimpfischhorn, accli- matised and fit, and made an ascent from the first lift and back to the valley in a day without a problem. We finished our Spring on skis in the Bernina. Escaping the Easter weekend crowds, we approached the Piz Bernina from the Italian side and enjoyed an ascent of this, the most easterly 4000er, captivated by the wild and remote feel of the area. I made a note that this was a place I’d like to return to.
Our initial failed attempt on the Rimp- fischhorn was easy to reconcile, an equipment failure was a justifiable explanation to descend empty handed. Later, when we returned to the Alps in June, things were going well. We climbed a few peaks from the Saastal which were still under a lot of snow. Then, donning our skis again, made an ascent of the highest peak in the Bernese Oberland, the Fin- steraarhorn. Back at the Jungfraujoch we climbed the Mönch and Jungfrau before taking the return train journey through the Eiger. A stable forecast then prompted us to head to the Monte Rosa where we traversed the range, often breaking trail through fresh snow and forcing the route from the Zumsteinspitze to the Dufourspitze and across to Nordend. This four-day foray bagged us a satisfying 16 out of the 18 Monte Rosa 4000m summits.
Preparing to descend the Bishorn
After a couple of day’s rest in the Rhône valley, which was baking in a blistering June heatwave, we headed into the mountains again. We climbed the Matterhorn via the Hornli Ridge and then the next day made the comparative amble up the Breithorn western and central summits, which we’d had to miss out when traversing the Monte Rosa due to avalanche risk. The following week, in the Mont Blanc Massif, we warmed up on the iconic Dent du Géant. The next day, in the crisp pre-dawn stillness we crossed the
‘Our confidence was sky high fromsuccessaftersuccess, but the mountains have a habit of bringing you down to Earth when you least expect it’
bergschrund and made our way up to the Aiguilles du Diable. This route comprises five rock pinnacles of sublime granite climbing, with the trickiest climbing on the very last spire, an exhilarating finale. As the sun dipped, we made our way over Mont Blanc du Tacul and descended to a deserted Col du Midi.
Our confidence was sky high from success after success, but the mountains have a habit of bringing you down to Earth when you least expect it.
Climbing the Finsteraarhorn
When the idea of climbing all the 4000 m peaks of the Alps popped into my head, and I began researching in earnest, I couldn’t believe how few people had climbed them all.
Why was this? Was it impossibly difficult? Was the idea that I could do this laughable? The idea of giving it a go scared me. Yet it nagged, like an itch that had to be scratched.
Research led into tedious definitions of 4000m peaks. It seems like a simple task, to composing a list of all peaks in the Alps over 4000m. However, because of differences in what defines an independent peak from a subsidiary summit, there are multiple lists. A list of 52 peaks, published in 1971, was made up of peaks with a prominence of 100m. Martin Moran came up with a list of 75 peaks which, impressively, he completed in one continuous journey in 1995. Most recently, the UIAA came up with a list of 82 peaks. The UIAA took a more holistic approach in composing their list, choosing peaks over 4000m which had mountain- eering interest. People have completed various lists, often taking decades, a handful taking a single summer. Only two Brits had completed the UIAA list of 82, Steve Hartland and Ben Tibbetts, both of whom are British Mountain Guides. According to our research no all-women’s team had completed any of these lists, over any amount of time.
As I tried to image what it would be like to climb 82 alpine peaks more questions whirled around my head.
How would my body cope? I’d climbed 4000m peaks before and all I remembered was being exhausted afterwards. Could I physically manage climbing back-to- back peaks? Would anyone else want to do this too? As with most climbing you need at least one other to join you to
    The wide-open spaces of the Bernese Oberland
ARMY MOUNTAINEER / 13



















































































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