Page 14 - 2019 AMA Winter

GUESTWRITER
Viewing the Hornli Ridge on the Matterhorn
make a climbing team. Could we tolerate each other for such an extended period, under such intensity? Do I have the skills and knowledge for all the peaks? Can I stay motivated for that length of time? I had never taken on something as long, physically demanding and technical as this before. It would involve over 50 alpine starts, and would be relentless in nature. Would I simply have had enough halfway through? Would the weather and conditions make it possible? A few weeks of poor weather could destroy our chances as we would quickly lose time to complete the routes in the short spells they would be in optimum condition.
I was in view of the hut when it started raining. “It won’t take me longer than 10 mins to get there.” I thought, “I won’t dig my waterproofs out my bag. It’s forecast to be a light shower.” The intensity of the rain increased rapidly, and I was drenched by the time I got to the entrance of the Refuge du Couvercle. Whilst we ate dinner we silently watched the rain slowly clear. We’d planned to climb the Droites the next day, before the last possible route on this peak was made impassable by yawning crevasses and rockfall. Now, uncertain whether the route would have enough time to freeze overnight, due to the prolonged, unforecast rain and overcast conditions, we switched objectives to the Aiguille Verte via the Moine Ridge.
A midnight start is never conducive to enthusiasm. In the short hours of rest, I had tried to dry my trousers between my
liner and the itchy hut blanket which had also dampened my spirits. We groped our way in the dark to the bergschrund, crossed this and grovelled our way up a damp and icy gully. We weaved around
‘We weaved around the rocky face, never quite sure whether we were on route or not’
the rocky face, never quite sure whether we were on route or not. Dawn came but the route-finding difficulties didn’t abate, and it was slowing us down. After 8 hours, and still unsure about the line, we made the decision to turn around and head down.
This failure cut deeper than on the Rimp- fischhorn two months earlier. Firstly, we’d not succeeded due to our personal skills, or lack of it, rather than equipment failure. Discovering that, on this day, you are not good enough is always a bitter pill to swallow. Secondly, it was likely that this was the last chance we had to climb these routes this summer. The intensity and the early timing of the June heatwave had accelerated the opening of crevasses and bergschrunds, plus caused an increased risk of rockfall as the snow and ice melted, which was effectively gluing loose rock together. In all, this meant that we’d now missed the conditions window for these summits. As we made the long walk back down the Mer de Glace and up the long ladders to the Montenvers train station we knew for the first time that we wouldn’t complete our Alpine 4000m peaks project in a year.
If an outcome is unknown, then it can be said that there is uncertainty. Fear of the uncertain is a normal human response and can result in feeling stressed and anxious. It is no wonder that as humans we crave certainty. Predictability means that we can plan our future, which provides security. We shy away from uncertainty, stay within the known, our comfort zone, and avoid the unknown which initiates this stress reaction. The trouble is life isn’t certain, we don’t know what will happened to us tomorrow, let alone in a decade. Coping well with uncertainty is a life skill. Having confidence in our adaptability and ability to cope builds resilience to life’s stresses.
14 / ARMY MOUNTAINEER
Abseiling off the Aiguilles du Diable