Page 19 - 2018 AMA Summer

Michelle Hordern and I went and sought out ‘Parle’ 6a+ (a top fifty climb in the guide book) which has the most scary and committing abseil either of us has ever experienced. Other pairs went and smashed out as many single pitch sport routes as their arms could cope with in a sunny, but windy crag with a lovely southerly aspect overlooking Calpe.
Continuing with single pitch, Rich Mayfield kindly took the group to some new and freshly bolted routes at Sella. The access issues experienced a few years ago have all gone now as the Orange House has purchased a large proportion of the land. The trees at the bottom give welcome shade on this south face crag that catches every ray of sunshine. Among many notable ascents Tom Bevan led his first 6a!
After the experience of the first week it was decided to step it up a gear. Al Topping and I went onto ‘Diredro UBSA’ HVS (5+) and Al Mason and Jamie Waddington to ‘Via Valencianous’ VS (5) on the Penon. Both routes are classics of the crag and as the wall is south facing catches sun all day. Meanwhile the remaining group
went to a new bolted crag that has been secretly developed by the Orange House. The grippy and sharp holds (rare things for a popular limestone area) was a hit with the group and had an impressive range of routes from 4+ through to high 7s. Indeed it was so new the locals were surprised and frustrated to find a group of Brits there!
The most imposing mountain in the area has to be the Puig Compania (1406m) located a 10 min drive from our base. It was the mountain loving Al M and Al T who decided to head up the Puig and climb ‘Espolon Central’ HS 4+. This is a test of route finding, endurance and efficiency on one of the largest routes in the Costa Blanca. The 14 pitches are on excellent, sound rock and gives airy situations on a wide ridge. Both men returned with smiles on their faces, but only ate their supper and headed straight to bed that evening. The rest of us headed to Echo Valley and Guadalest for some single pitch routes in one of the picturesque villages in the region. The high cliffs and towers are topped with monasteries and walkways and are truly breath taking. Matt Thompson was pioneering the use of the clip-stick and worked several routes up to 7b.
On the penultimate day Jamie Waddington and I went on a mission to El Dorado at Sierra de Toix, which is now is one of my most memorable climbs of the trip and was an adventurous experience. The route tackles a steep and imposing wall in three pitches and each one has a very different character. The jugs and crimps on the second pitch were a pumpy and scary experience that was one hell of a physical challenge. On the same day Si Hall discovered the ‘Beta Bee’ on a visit to Echo Valley 1.5. The insect was buzzing around Si during a difficult
ascent and generally irritating him. All of his anger soon left after the bee showed him a hold that eased his strain. Unfortu- nately the bee couldn’t be persuaded to stay for the rest of the trip, however, the ‘Whipper Wasp’ did turn up on a couple of occasions though.
While the sport climbing is legendary in Spain the ridges are also notoriously good and John Hoban, Matt Thompson and Si Hall decided to sample the Castelletes Ridge. A full day outing graded at grade 4+ with high quality scrambling. After this glowing recommendation on the final day of the trip I took Tom Bevan along the Castelletes Ridge while Al Mason took Michelle and Kate. The views were spectacular and I had plenty of time to appreciate them and practice my guiding skills as I led Tom across knife edge ridges that he mostly negotiated by leopard crawling the flats and gripping the flakes with white knuckles. The exposure is quite impressive as you negotiate the various pinnacles and towers.
While I organised the trip, and therefore have a bias, I believe everyone had a good time on this grown up and mellow expedition. Everyone filled up log book pages and had experiences that will improve their climbing and mountaineer- ing (you can make your own judgement on which is more important). Recommending this area for a trip isn’t really enough and I feel doesn’t do justice to the beauty and quality of the routes. If you consider your self a climber you must go there!
Al Mason on Castelletes Ridge
FACTS i LOCATION: FINESTRAT, COSTA
BLANCA, SOUTHERN SPAIN
ACCOMMODATION:
THE ORANGE HOUSE
WHEN: 27 NOV – 8 DEC 2017
CRAGS: SELLA, SIERRA DE TOIX, MARIN, PENON, PUIG COMPANIA, GUADALEST, CASTELLETES RIDGE
NUMBER OF PERSONNEL WHO DEPLOYED: 10
Sean Scrambling
ARMY MOUNTAINEER / 19