Page 21 - 2018 AMA Summer

LCpl Gray reflecting after a day at Paradiset
Maj Waterston and Capt Russell belaying on Only Biliberries
FACTS i LOCATION: LOFOTEN ISLANDS,
NORWAY
ACTIVITIES: TRAD MULTIPITCH CLIMBING, HIKING
DEPLOYED PERSONNEL: 16
CRAG LOCATIONS: HENNINGS- VAER, SVOLVAER, PARADISET
Ex SELVA BACKSTOP is the premier Adventure Training event in the ARRC calendar. The 2017 exercise
(SB17) took place between 2-16 June 2017 in the Lofoten Islands, Norway; a stunningly beautiful archipelago where sheer, rocky mountains rise dramati- cally from clear blue seas. SB17 was a mountaineering expedition focused on mountain walking and traditional multipitch rock climbing that provided a superb opportunity to develop leadership skills outside of the typical military environment. Sixteen officers and soldiers from the ARRC Group, representing six different nations, participated in the exercise. The participants were broken down into two sub-groups, walking and climbing, for the majority of the expedition. This article will focus on the climbing group.
The climbing group began their training at the sea cliffs at Paradiset, home to a huge range of low grade climbs with a spectacular view across the sea to mainland Norway. Here the novice students were taught the basics of climbing, such as knot tying and belaying through to the more advanced systems required to climb as a team of three on multipitch climbs. The short nature of the climbs at Paradiset (less than 20m) allowed the teams to practise climbing techniques such as basic footwork and hand placement to ‘jamming’ in a relatively friendly environment. As the difficulties of the climbs increased, the ability of the climbers to assess and solve problematic climbing moves in an increasingly uncom- fortable (and sometimes daunting) situation developed rapidly. The teams
progressed over the next few days to multipitch climbs up to 150m high on cliffs overlooking the picturesque fishing village of Henningsvaer. These routes allowed the teams to further hone fundamental ropework skills and practise their climbing techniques before moving on to greater challenges.
By day four, a relatively short space of time for the more novice climbers, the teams were ready for the 400m high route named Only Bilberries, which is regarded as one of the best routes of its grade in the world. <<Maj Waterston and Capt Russell belaying on Only Biliberries>>
The start point of the climb is over an hours walk from the nearest road at the end of a scenic fjord. The psychologi- cal pressure of operating in an extreme, difficult to access, vertical environment, combined with the potential risk of falling meant that the teams would have to show a great deal of courage to conquer Only Bilberries. After seven pitches of sustained, difficult climbing followed by a number of exposed abseils, the teams successfully completed the route; a significant achievement and an unforget- table experience.
By this stage of SB17, the teams had developed excellent cohesion, through mutual trust and effective communication. Throughout the remainder of the trip they went on to climb a number of outstanding routes of a similar nature to Only Bilberries. Of particular note was an ascent of Sea Eagle, a gruelling slab climb which took several hours of constant climbing. The stunning Artic ‘midnight sun’ present in Lofoten during this time of year ensured there was no risk of the climbers having to climb or abseil in the dark. The discipline required to stay focused on safety critical tasks such as belaying during a length of climb like this is substantial. On another day, one of the teams ascended the highest peak in Lofoten, Vagakallen (943m). An arduous walk, followed by a tricky scramble to the rocky summit gave a tough outing which required consider- able robustness and determination from the team.
The real highlight of the trip was perhaps the ascent of the Svolvaer Goat. This 100m high detached pinnacle overlooks the town of Svolvaer with two rocky
‘horns’ at the summit. Although shorter than many of the routes climbed, the steep ground on the approach to the pinnacle made the climbing phenome- nally exposed. Having reached the top, it is traditional for climbers to step across the gap between the ‘horns’. This seems simple when standing at the base but on the summit standing in a wildly precarious position, it becomes an extremely bold move and requires total confidence. The abseil from the ‘horns’ is equally terrifying; hanging from an awkward belay, the teams had to conduct a ‘free’ abseil (dangling in space without touching the rock) to gain the sanctuary of flat ground.
In summary, many linkages can be found between mountaineering and military challenges. A difficult climb is comparable in many ways to a demanding military operation. Conditions for both activities can be arduous and complex, requiring personnel to possess a high level of training, understanding, physical and mental robustness, and good communi- cation skills. Understanding the balance of achievement of the objective (such as the summit for climbers or the mission on operations) against the risk involved is also critical. Success or failure in both activities is often defined by leadership and the strength of the bond within the team. The valuable experience of the par- ticipants on SB17 will therefore enhance the operational effectiveness of the ARRC in the future.
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