Page 20 - 1995 Mountaineering Club Bulletin

ANNUAL BULLETIN
Denali 95 - Expedition Report
The aim of the Expedition was to climb Mt McKinley 20,320ft, Alaska, and in doing so provide high altitude expe­ rience to the team members.
Background.
flights into Alaska were eventually booked through various chan­ nels to achieve the cheapest possible fares. Provisional A book­ ings were eventually made by dealing direct with Northwest Airlines. It was found that there were no direct flights to Alaska, as a result UK based airlines were unable to offer significant dis­ counts. A variety of aviation companies who specialise in flights into the McKinley Range were more than happy to arrange a package getting the Expedition from Anchorage Airport to the Glacier and return, which significantly reduced the amount of work necessary in organising the itinerary.
Equipment.
The West Buttress Route of Mt McKinley provides relatively
straightforward ascent of the mountain through a predominantly
glaciated approach with only short sections of headwall to ascend
on the upper part of the mountain. The route is very popular
with an international flavour, with approximately 1,000 attempt­
ing the route each year from late April to early July. In the earli­
er part of this period extremely cold conditions prevail hamper­
ing progress, however the glaciated parts of the route are rela­
tively easy as few crevasses are visible and snow bridges are sonal equipment suitable for high altitude conditions. Many extensive. Late ascents experience much warmer conditions but
with greater problems crossing crevasses. The success rate in reaching the summit increases dramatically in the second half of the period, but is much dependent on the prevailing weather conditions. McKinely, situated only a few tens of miles from the Gulf of Alaska, is particularly exposed to fast moving depressions experiencing a maritime climate very similar to the UK. However its latitude of 63 deg N and its elevation combine to make it probably the coldest and most unpredictable mountain in the world outside Antarctica. In addition, its high latitude and increased pressure lapse with height make the summit pres­ sure equivalent to a 22,500 ft. Himalayan peak during the early summer.
Organisation.
After provisional approval was received in late 94, the Expedition was advertised in the Club Newsletter and by early February the main body of the team had been selected. The minimum requirement of Alpine and Scottish experience and competent winter mountaineer did not prove a problem in selecting a team with the necessary experience and qualifications. Three of the team had already achieved similar altitudes to that of McKinley in both the Himalaya and South America. With the exception of one of the group all had completed a minimum of JSMEL (Winter) training. The wide geographical distribution of the group allowed for little training prior to leaving the UK and as a result the vast majority of equipment organisation was complet­ ed over the telephone with individuals being made responsible for their self sufficiency. Organisation of the group's itinerary outside the UK was arranged by K2 Aviation. Assembling the group for the first time the day before departure proved essential to ensure all the communal kit was evenly distributed for the flight. The baggage limit of 2x70 lbs. Per person plus hand lug­ gage proved sufficient to transport all kit and food. Once in Alaska the group were able to repack equipment ready for the flights onto the Glacier.
Transport.
Individuals travelled to the group rendezvous at RAF Headley Court by minibus, car and train using local travel budgets. The
were able to use the Expedition’s contacts in providing the best quality equipment at trade prices. Most took the opportunity to buy expedition quality sleeping bags and down jackets for them­ selves. The equipment bought by the Expedition on behalf of individuals will be surrendered to the appropriate authorities as detailed in Annex D. All the group used standard plastic double boots used in UK winter conditions, although 2 individuals did invest in expedition grade boots prior to departure. The quality of the equipment chosen was generally agreed to have been very suitable for the conditions experienced. 5 new expedition grade tents were provided by DNPTS. Ski touring equipment was loaned from the RN Winter Sports Association along with a number of shovels and avalanche probes. A CB radio and sledges were hired from the Aviation Company.
Rations and Fuel.
20 days CILOR and 10 days Arctic ORPs were provided for the Expeidtion through the catering system. Fresh and dried food was purchased in Alaska to provide a total of 25 days food per person for the hill. Fuel was purchased in Talkeetna from the Aviation Company and was supplied from the airstrip on the Glacier.
Conclusions.
Despite the fact that no-one was able to stand on the summit all agreed the Expedition was very successful in providing high alti­ tude and cold weather experience. The main challenges in climbing the mountain other than the weather conditions were undoubtedly logistics and acclimatisation. Good personal equip­ ment ensured the cold was not a major problem on the majority of the hill, with minor frost bite being the only problem experi­ enced by one member. However the very high radiative temper­ atures experienced on the lower part of the hill, particularly on the Glacier, needed careful monitoring to ensure sunburn and snow blindness were not significant factors. Despite this it proved almost impossible to avoid blistered lips and nostrils. Diligent building of walls around the tents ensured that strong winds did not prove a major hazard, however drifting around the tents during the storm at 11,000 ft. Ensured digging the tents out
THE ROYAL NAVY & ROYAL MARINES MOUNTAINEERING CLUB
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Each individual was made responsible for providing his own per­