Page 21 - 1995 Mountaineering Club Bulletin

on a regular basis was essential. The slow ascent rate and enforced stay at 11,000ft. Ensured there were few significant symptoms of AMS. The most noticeable effects of altitude apart from breathlessness were loss of appetite and disturbed sleep pat­ terns. All had a good awareness of the effects of dehydration at altitude, which was effectively countered by increased fluid con­ sumption.
Restrospectively it was agreed that too much food had been car­ ried slowing progress on the lower part of the route. In addition a certain amount of “nice to have” equipment added to this prob­ lem. As cahces were collected on the descent, much food was given away to ascending groups. There was marginal advantage found in using skis in ascent up to 11,000ft, however above that height the significant increase in gradient made their use a haz­ ard and so they were left at 11,000ft. There was no advantage found in using skis in descent as variable snow conditions and sledge pulling caused major problems. Lifting all equipment and food up to 11,000ft. in short legs proved to be the best option, despite being hard work. Above the 11,000ft camp, the steeper terrain and ice conditions encountered made caching of food and fuel prior to moving camp the best option, and also provided good acclimatisation. Given the experience of the group, the lack of training prior to leaving the UK did not significantly extend the time spent on the lower part of the mountain. However fine tuning of individual rope techniques including the incorporation of the sledge into the system did require some initial attention.
Overall success of any expedition to McKinley is very much dependent on the weater encountered. In this case the storm and subsequent delay at 11,000ft. undoubtedly increased the pressure to move up the higher part of the mountain quickly. In retro­ spect, if the group had been lucky enough to have had one fur­ ther day of good weather and consequently been storm bound at 14,000ft, much better acclimatisation would have been achieved. This would have allowed caching and movement above this level to progress as soon as good weather was finally encountered. It was generally accepted that much individual effort was required in lifting up the headwall and ridge above, up to the 17,300ft camp could have been made increasing the chances of making a successful summit bid. Much experience was gained by all the individuals who participated which undoubtedly will be of great value in other high altitude/cold climate expedition undertaken in the future.
PROGRAMME OF EVENTS
MONDAY 15 MAY
Arrive Anchorage 2300 local time (BST minus 9 hours). TUESDAY 16 MAY
0900 met by Talkeetna Shuttle Service for drive to Talkeetna. Food and equipment shopping stop at Wasilla en route. Overnight at K2 Aviation bunkhouse. Repack equipment for glacier flight. Receive Ranger brief and register expedition. Make final arrangements with K2 Aviation for next day’s flight.
WEDNESDAY 17 MAY
6 of group (2 aircraft) plus equipment fly on to SE Fork Kalhiltna Glacier at 7,200ft. Third aircraft with Lancaster and Lewis on board returns to Talkeetna due to low cloud. Spare tent and 5 days rations buried at airstrip as contingency. Group of 6 even­ tually move on skis 2 miles north up Kalhiltna Glacier and estab­ lish camp at 7,300ft. Hicking and Tough return to airstrip for overnight camp on the SE Fork to await remainder of group, hav­ ing left the majority of their kit and food at the 7,300 ft. camp. Cloudy -2 deg C.
THURSDAY 18 MAY
Lancaster aiid Lewis arrive airstrip 0930 in fine weather. Move with Hicking and Tough north to 7,300ft. camp. Aiston, Lang, Arnold and Russell move from 7,300ft. camp 2 miles north estab­ lish camp 7,700ft. at foot of “Ski Hill”. Lang and Arnold ski back
ANNUAL BULLETIN
19