Page 10 - RAFMA Winter 2003

1 O
RAFMA
Journal 2003
trip, in that it was a timely Alps can be very tempera- Unlike previous alpine weather conditions and d alpine rock climbing and limise their time on the hill, despite its name it is now i therefore brings with it isponsibilities for RAFMA igmatic approach by both tders, which recognises pined with a structured that we now conduct JSAM
.5 aimed at future leaders, will be available in the it document. Despite all of these new measures it is ; that we are not immune from accidents, and it is ely to remind ail club members that mountaineering k activity and it might happen to you! Unfortunately was involved in a slip on the Aguille de Tour during b of the expedition that resulted in slight concussion m jaw. The remainder of his party arranged a rapid py helicopter and Rimon was soon receiving excellent re Chamonix hospital. At this point we all began to ' lessons; firstly, ensure that your expedition has fearance and the British Embassy is oware of your condly, olways carry on ET11 on the hill and thirdly, insider taking out your own insurance. Despite hat the M O D will cover you for on-duty activities, the it when isolated in a foreign country and needing rgery- money talks (The M O D will eventually help out, be quite an exhausljng process). Thankfully, this icident was not too serious, but it did disrupt the nd did result in Rimon having his jaw wired shut for 3 tri-service organisation we learnt o great deal from many of the lessons will be discussed at the next Joint jntaineering Committee Meeting and should result in es (for the good) to the J SAM format,
about the climbing? The weather was excellent for
Nick Kurth after a cold night out!
most of the trip and despite a serious lack
of snow which affected many of the big
classic mixed and snow routes the RAF
element were able to take full advantage of
the fabulous rock routes in the Chamonix
valley. The Aguille De L'M (D-,V), Aguille De
Index (AD, IV) and the Chapelle De Gliere
(D,IV+) were clambered over by almost all of
the expedition. The Cosmiques Apron (D, V+)
and Arete (PD+) proved good sport and even managed to shut Liz up for a bit! Colin and Dave
visited the Envers Hut as part of their abseiling tour
of the Alps and in between descents of the Droites (grade unknown because route unknown) and Les
Retits Dru (D, V on the way up, epic on the way down!) climbed Sonam (D, V) described as one of Chamonix's best rock routes in a recent High article ^ (I'm not sure the unprotected lead above the " bergschrund existed when the article was written). Boycie racked up 89 Rebuffat points this year (89
more than last time!), undertook a CRASH course in / French and became (default) JSAM Leader with
myself. The Leuchars team thrashed themselves around the hill non-stop and ticked a large number of routes overlooking the Vallee Blanche, including the East Ridge of Pyramid Du Tacul (D-, V), Dent de Geant (AD) and Mont Blanc Du Tacul (probably PD+ in the poor conditions on the bergschrund) as well as a few esoteric gems dreamt up by Don in obscure parts of
the valley (was it the quality of the climbing or the long walk-in that proved the attraction?). Stu Coultard and Pete Homilton did most of the above and of course hung about the campsite looking
G O O D (like all good PTIs), and our novices enjoyed an introduction to the Alps with Henry Brannigan from BAC, which will hopefully see them awarded Alpine Mountaineering Proficiency. The award now includes Klettersteigs, and the team discovered some excellent ladders further down the valley which were tried out by
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a number of people on their days off.
ji Finally, the trip would not have been Js
complete without a heroic oscent of
Mont Blanc, and Dave and Bren can
aA be credited with a swift ascent, on the / last day, in weather conditions /
reminiscen of Cairngorm in winter.
Their ascent included a planned A bivvy at the Vallot Hut (with a 25-
jm strong parly of Eastern Europeans in yl 6 million dollar man tracksuits) without sleeping bags just to round
off the whole pleasant experience! Many thanks to everyone who A made JSAM 03 onother enjoyable
E trip, apologies if I haven't listed ijd B ln l your particular epic, but I'm
- sure improve
on 1le Story for the
ne/1 time meet n -------------H the pub.
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