Page 9 - RAFMA Winter 2003

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The name game added a new dimension to the sport, one not previously encountered by me. 1 suddenly realised that I had taken for-granted all the route names contained in UK guidebooks. Now faced with the responsibility of naming a climb or two, my mind went blank. To help solve the problem, we agreed that the climbs on Pleasant Peak would have a Penguin theme, thus all the names included the name of a type of Penguin (unless something else was more appropriate). On a different cliff, I decided to immortalise my daughter and her
mother by naming a couple of routes after them. But a word of caution, if you ever decide to do this, make sure that the subsequent route description is suitably flattering; after all, who wants a route named after them that is described "climb the obvious dirty crack, past the large
Enthused by the first ascent of an extreme and having cracked the naming dilemma, we began to explore further afield - both of us believing that there must be something better out there. There was. The new area was located on the SW flank of Mount Challenger. In the guidebook this had been misidentified as Smoko Rocks which lay 9
A swift 45-minute ascent of Mount Challenger from the Port Stanley road brought us to an impressive 1 0 0 m long crag which topped out at approximately 70m in
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On my return, I lacked a climbing partner; however, an overheard conversation in the bar put me in touch with Brian Kirkpatrick, the SMO, who was also keen to go cragging. We spent our first day together messing about on some of the well documented routes on Wall Mountain - a sprawling mass of rock on the outskirts on Port Stanley that reflects the sunlight like a mirror. The easy angle of the slabs made for an entertaining day which served to blow away the cobwebs. Brian suggested that our next trip should take in Vostock, a steep, obvious crack on the main face of Mount Harriet. Having already led the climb, Brian offered me the lead. My first attempt ended in retreat after placing my third runner. The wind, which had been blowing my ropes sideways began spitting cold, sleet-laden rain. Once the heavy shower had stopped, as suddenly as it started, I climbed this classic route
reaching the top with the first of many bouts of numb fingers that were to become a trademark of climbing in the Falkland Islands.
Like most other climbers, the serviceman has to balance his day job with the need to get out and "feed the rat". Much of my time in the Falklands was spent on call. Fortunately the airfield sits under Pleasant Peak, which sports many great climbs all within bleeper range. Much of the easier rock on Pleasant Peak has been climbed and documented in the 20 years since the 1982 conflict. However, on my recce I had nosed an area of overhanging rock, reminiscent of a breaking wave, that had the potential to yield a number of routes. Brian and I spent a productive day in this area establishing five short routes that ranged from severe to HVS, all overhanging. Now inspired by what the ridge had to offer, Brian spent an afternoon combing it to see if it possessed any longer, more difficult lines. This proved to be _____
time well spent. In early March, we added RM IIHML. two multi pitch routes and two more that ran
out a complete 50m rope. Brian also spotted
a challenging line that proved to be the most
difficult on the crag to date. It was a fierce
looking, overhanging crack. It began as a
straightforward, but strenuous, overhanging
fist ¡am, which changed direction to become
an even more strenuous, still overhanging
hand traverse with only smears for the feet.
The first ascent of this (by Brian) was carried
out in near freezing, hand numbing,
conditions and was aptly named "A
Momentary Lapse of Reason" which we
places. The whole buttress looked sound and its Southern face sported some very challenging lines. The weather that day was fine and the West face was basking in the unfiltered, UV rich, afternoon sun; consequently, we dubbed it Afternoon Buttress. As we were both feeling fit, we managed 5 new routes that afternoon. Afternoon Buttress produced some climbs that required a gymnastic approach, a corner, some cracks and an exposed arete. The belay position at the top commanded stunning views of the South Atlantic. During several subsequent visits to the crag, we explored the colder South face which yielded some challenging and interesting lines, the most challenging two were put up by Brian. The Bell Ringer was a short El that didn't go without a fight. A delicate step out on to an exposed face with poor protection, was followed by a finger ledge with friction foot holds from which a long reach over an overhang to the top completed the ordeal. This was a pumpy route complicated by freezing fingers. The second route of note was dubbed Cornflakes which employed long reaches - not for the vertically challenged - to gain an exposed traverse along a precarious large flake under a loose looking block. The climb ended by turning a corner into a belay.
Finally, the weather began to break and my tour in the Falkland Islands drew to a close. However, before it did, I undertook to reproduce the Falkland Islands Climbing Guidebook in electronic format. This new guide includes all the previous text and topo diagrams that were available to me, plus some new route descriptions and photos. For those planning some climbing during their visit to the islands, the guide can be found on the British Forces Falkland Islands Intranet and there is a hard copy in the PEdO's office.
The author on Afternoon Buttress' - Mount Challenger.
Journal 2003
RAFMA