Page 11 - 2021 AMA Summer

Climbing amongst the world’s biggest mountains left me breathless - although only
from the altitude. As my two Slovenian friends, Luka and Aleš, climbed towards me near the summit of Latok 1 (7145m), I glanced around at thick cloud swirling like fingers over the peak. I should’ve been able to see giants in the distance: K2, Nanga Parbat and other famous names were somewhere around us.
These mountains should’ve unfolded like a magic carpet into the horizon, layers of jagged teeth jutting through Pakistan. Instead, the clouds veiled the views; we could’ve been in Scotland. Snowflakes fell on my down jacket and collected in the creases. Mountain Equipment later reminded me it was a down jacket designed for the Alps
in winter - not for pushing above 7000 metres in a blizzard. Hand over hand, I pulled up the half rope which joined me to my friends.
There was no belay on the summit snow slopes.
Reflecting on climbing a first ascent on Latok 1 in 2018, I realised our ascent was a culmination of nearly a decade of alpine climbing, thankfully (luckily) well-structured and progressively more adventurous. I had climbed as much as possible in all aspects for many years, sculpting my life by the simple act of ascent. Consciously - and sometimes sub-consciously - I had dedicated my life to climbing: I’d worked in industries
which complemented this lifestyle, such as outdoor instructing and
rope access. I’d forgone a stable income or even a reliable place to live. These didn’t feel like sacrifices, but I suppose they were in some way. Of course, I also had a healthily amount of luck.
After reaching the summit of Latok 1, and once we’d descended (over the course of dozens of abseils, two days and one night), I allowed myself to feel some satisfac-
tion from the sacrifices paying off. Plus, I was now able to get drunk after just one beer!
Tom and Ally Swinton on the top of Koyo Zom, Pakistan 2019 trip Photo credit: Tom Livingstone
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