Page 24 - 2021 AMA Summer

MISCARTICLE
MCK HUt Mt Kenya
Olympian Hells Gate
standard North and South-East Face routes, both at 5.8, and the thirteen abseil decent [!] has recently been re-bolted. But be aware that these are long routes [15-18 pitches or so], and that on the summit of Nelion is the relatively comfortable Howell bivouac. It may seem strange, but since Mt Kenya is on the equator, the North and South-East Face routes have different winter seasons.... I have had to cut steps in hard ice on the South-East
The Belfry Lebendera
face route, when the rest of the route was sun-warmed rock. Much sought after [relatively speaking] is the full traverse of the peaks, starting up the South-West Ridge, traversing the main summits of Batian and Nelion, and then down and across Pt John and other lesser tops. This also includes the traverse of the Gate of the Mists between Natian and Nelion, which requires crampons and an axe.
Closer to Nairobi is the Mountaineering Club of Kenya-owned crag, Lukenya. With a new guidebook, it is actually possible to find the routes now, scattered across a series of buttresses on a hillside above the main road to the Coast. Very popular for days out, weekends and other over- nighters, Lukenya offers everything from the easiest to the hardest routes.
24 / ARMY MOUNTAINEER
Ololokwe