Page 16 - Simply Vegetables Spring 2022

Longest Runner Bean
I was never a top show grower with exhibition runner beans – they grew too strongly; plants had more vigour than needed on my land – this was 30 years ago so I soon realised I would be better attempting to grow the longest as most local shows had a class for these. It took me a while to obtain the right seed from other giant vegetable exhibitors but after that they have been very successful for me and continue to be – winning the class at Harrogate and Malvern last year.
Most shows can be won with one over 760mm (30”) but at national level usually 860mm (34”) is needed. I have shown 890mm (35”) more than once but my growing friend Joe Atherton showed one
at 915mm (36”) a few years ago. It was thought that this would be a new British record but a newspaper article in the 80’s stated that a 990mm (39”) had been grown. If anyone has more details of this, we would be interested in hearing as it seems very long for a Runner bean. There are other beans of course in the world which grow considerably longer given the right climate and the current world record is 1.3m – but this is not a ‘Runner’
So how do you grow a runner bean to win the longest at your show?
SEED
Obtain these from winning growers or specialist seed merchants, if they do well you can save your own for next year by selecting your longest ones with the most beans inside, 7 is good 8 is better and
occasionally you may find 9. I have found the more beans (if in good condition) improves the chances of growing longer one’s next season.
GROUND PREPARATION
Like most plants, beans do better in fresh soil every year, not always possible to relocate growing areas so the root area has to be improved. I usually remove the top spit to another part of the garden, fork up the bottom and fill the trench with kitchen waste over the winter, topping up with compost/new soil in the spring and add
a base fertiliser. I think they do better on heavy land - mine has a clay sub soil and I aim for a pH of 6.5 – 7.0
SUPPORT STRUCTURE/LOCATION
Strong 1.8m timbers set in metal posts at around 3m centres with two horizontal rails between provide a sturdy support for 2.4m canes at 380mm centres. Beans need a sunny aspect with some shading from the prevailing winds, so my row is usually east to west. I try to lean the canes slightly to the north as this allows the beans to hang clear - the longest seem to grow at the back.
PROPAGATION
I ‘chit’ the seeds between damp tissue in
a warm area around the end of May, pot them up in 100mm pots in the greenhouse and plant out before they are root bound after the last frost.
GROWING ON
Sometimes they need help attaching to their right canes, the vines are grown as a cordon until being stopped at the top of the cane – I tie them off at this point. Lower flower trusses are removed up
to 900mm from the ground and above 1700mm which leaves 3 or 4 trusses only to flower. Pollination can be a problem in dry weather; it is helped by spraying the foliage over with water and keeping the soil well watered.
I usually let the first 3 flowers set on each truss removing all others, eventually thinning to the strongest 1 or 2. At this stage the trusses want supporting by tying back to the structure. As they develop most
16 Simply Vegetables
PETER GLAZEBROOK