Page 15 - 2002 AMA Summer

URDUS SPORT ROUTE!
trying to sort out an improvised belay. I then had the nightmare job of seconding the pitch with the rucksack. I soon realised that if I did fall off the stretch in rope would drop me below the roof - this was enough incentive to get me through pitch four.
I cranked my way through the crux, which although hard was only a few moves. I immediately spotted the line of bolts to the right that Loz had missed. I climbed across to the correct belay stance. Loz had to carefully reverse over some extremely loose ground to join me on the belay.
Another easy pitch followed which Loz climbed. This meant that I got the next hard pitch. We instantly thought it was an obvious layback corner but on closer inspection it was a much steeper wall and crack off to the right. This proved to be the most technical pitch on the route with a serious barn door potential halfway up. This pitch was graded 6b + but felt much harder.
This pitch delivered us on the crest of a narrow airy ridge. So that Loz got the next hard pitch I set off on the easy scramble to the bottom of the next 6b pitch. In my excitement I then went off route and managed to find myself on the wrong side of a loose tower looking down on the pitch we were supposed to be climbing next. A line of bolts rose up a smooth wall on the opposite side of the tower. I reversed deli­ cately down the tower and crossed over to the correct belay.
The last difficult pitch was now above and it was Loz’s turn. At 6b it ensured the pressure stayed on. We also now had an audience watchipg us from theCamino Del
Mike Smith just below the roof.
Loz moving through the overhange.
Rey. It is a shame it has been left to rot as it offers a unique experience.
Loz again climbed brilliantly up the steep wall and arete. The pitch was very sustained and totally different in character to the rest of the climb. The difficulties did not ease up until the last move. By now my arms were aching and the weight of the rucksack carrying our water, fleeces and trad gear, was becoming tiresome. It was also now very hot. Despite this the climbing was amazing as |.Swung up the fine arete and the last moves tq join Loz. Now almost
170m above the gorge and the situation was incredibly exposed and atmospheric.
The climb finished with two easy pitches to the top of the route. This was followed by an easy scramble down to Los Cotos. We ran and walked back along the railway line to El Chorro like two excited school boys, unable to contain our excitement. This had been one of those once in a season climbs, fantastic climbing in an amazing situation and although £n bolts it was still a serious and adventurous undertakin