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well irrigated top of Grey Slab was clean and dry. So sunny was it and so blue the sky that it seemed almost a sin to be indoors, but many reaped the best of both worlds by tak ing advantage of the opportunity to enter the “crag pointing” competition that com
Editorial
Foreword
by Brigadier Jon Watson MBE
President
his 50th anniversary year of the Army Mountaineering plemented the main event TAssociation has got off to a cracking start. The team from at Indie and the Beacon The Army Foundation College has already returned from the Climbing Centre at
Atlas mountains in Morocco having successfully achieved theLilranberis. Thanks to Mike Smith’s climbing and organisational goal of climbing Jebel Toubkal, members of the ski mountaineesrkills, the indoor competition went ahead as planned, yielding
ing expedition to Shisha Pangma are training hard, and planninsgome excellent performances and deserving prizewinners. On for the trip to Andrees Land in Greenland is well under wathy.e final day we were graced with the presence of Colonel Chris Mildly disappointing is the news that we will have to postpone oHurarris, the Secretary of the Army Sports Control Board, who had visit to Lotus Flower Tower until next year, but there was a lactoeme to see for himself what sport climbing was all about and change of leadership and a short delay is a price worth paying fhoorw the ASCB’s grant was being spent. I am delighted to say a properly organised attempt. These are ambitious plans, and wtheat he was thoroughly impressed on both counts, commenting owe a vote of thanks to the Army Central Fund, ATG(A) and thfaevourably on the skill and determination of the competitors and Berlin Infantry Brigade Memorial Trust Fund as well as our variouthse high standards achieved. As a result I dare to hope that the patrons and commercial sponsors, all of whom have supportefudture support of the ASCB, so vital to this growing sport, is
assured.
These events follow hard on the heels of last year’s Everest West Ridge expedition, whose courage and professionalism has made a lasting impression on the climbing community both within the Services and more widely in the civilian climbing community. As I watched our stars competing on the wall I was struck by the depth of the talent we encompass within the Association and the breadth of activities we undertake around the world. Whether you have been front-pointing up the French Spur or redpointing at Gogarth you really are a remarkable bunch, and I congratulate you all on this year’s achievements so far. Of course there is much to look forward to as well, from the moderately tricky to the mildly bonkers, including an attempt by Mark and Ritchie to com plete every Hard Rock route in Ken Wilson’s book within a sea son. But if a couple of weekends on the crags and maybe a visit to JSAM are all you can manage, no matter: it’s all climbing and it’s all good. So good luck, get out there and stay safe.
the risk’, because it is. But what I will say is you have to learn the trade and spend time getting to know winter conditions and developing your own survival skills. The very thing that makes
will kill you at the first opportunity! It is a thin line we moun to Morroco lead by Daz Doyle with a team of young climtabineersers walk, keep your wits about you and if you are in doubt
to the ‘off the wall adventure’ of the AMA Winter meetp.laTyheit safe and learn from the experience.
sport climbers have made it to the cover again, for the sec
ond time only I believe, with their muscle pumping evenAtssoofme of you will know I retired from the Army at the start of the Army Bouldering championships and the very suctcheissyear. Life in civilian street is good but challenging and I ful Army Festival of Climbing. Mike Smith project to hcaevlefound myself being propped up by my sole mate, climb brate all aspects of climbing and have fun doing it iinsg.anI have been the journal editor for 10 years and tried to example to all sports lovers of an inclusive event. Ihhaanvdeover the job on two occasions. This time it is the final made the most of the full colour style of the magazine hsahnodwover! If you are reading this magazine and are thinking
us so generously and willingly throughout and without whom these adventures would not be possible.
Those who attended our Festival of Climbing in Capel Curig at Easter could have been forgiven for thinking that summer had already arrived, with conditions so arid that even the notoriously
elcome to the Summer 2007 edition of the Army
WMountaineer in this our 50th Anniversary year. The winter mountaineering so enjoyable is also the very thing that
magazine is full of good stuff from the AMA 50 trip
off your picture, I hope you like it!
On a more serious note Iwas disturbed to here about how many had lost their lives in the mountains of Scotland this winter. I remember my own Scottish winter apprenticeship and the many close calls I had with friends on dubious gear and long run-outs. Winter mountaineering above all other aspects of climbing is the most risky, you go out is search of adventure when most sane people are hold up in front of a fire with a single malt in their hand! But it is also the most challenging and that is the catch. Climbers see the world in a different way to many others, full of opportunities to test them selves against the elements and grav ity. I would be the last person on the planet to say ‘it’s not worth
you could do better or just different then you are where I was 10 years ago. It Is a great job on the committee, you are in the thick of it and you can make a real difference for the member ship. If you would like to become the Journal Editor contact Cath Davis direct before the AGM in September.
And finally the £150 goes to Sven for his AMA Winter Meet arti cle and for keeping alive the adventure...
Cheers Steve
Error - Winter 06/07 Journal - The Cho Oyu Affair was wrongly credited to Stu Macdonald. The article was writ ten by Simon Hall, Sorry Simon.
ARMY MOUNTAINEER 3
