Page 10 - 1995 AMA Autumn

\K \n MOUNTAINEER
Sport Climbing Championships 28 April 1995
L ast year sport climbing burst onto the Army scene with the first Sport Climbing Championships. The event was a great success and, by popular demand, a second event was organ­
ised for 28 Apr 95.
Planning for the '95 event started as soon as the ’94 one ended. Once the venue had been selected, the process of publishing DCIs, attracting sponsors, raising funds, organising accommodation, bullying people to be belay and begging people to be judges got under way. In true military style this process ended with the last hold being made specially overnight and being bolted to the wall minutes before the competition started.
The venue was the new centre at Hull “Rockcity”, which was in fact so new that the competitors were the first climbers to use the wall, and all the routes were set specifically for the competition. These routes were set by two local hot shots from Hull helped by myself and Mac Mckav, with Paul Craven making the fine adjust­ ments.
The event was again divided into three categories:
Up to and including VS. HVS to El.
E2 and above.
Each category competed against all comers regardless of age or sex. The heats were hotly contested, as those who did not make the cut knew that they would not get to climb again. The steepness of the wall causing some climbers difficulties with the massive eight meters of overhang requiring either a thuggish strength, or excel­ lent power and stamina.
By mid afternoon the cut had been made thirteen finalists in the E2 and above category and 12 in the HVS to El. In the VS catego­ ry being a little more friendly, everyone got a second climb. Whilst preparation for the final took place event staff mercilessly sold event T shins and raffle tickets to anyone unsuspecting enough to
OCdt Nathan Pike Sheffield UOTC: 1st Place Overall, with the Cotswold Shield
come too close. The motto was “If they won’t buy one, then sell them one”. After all we had to make the event pay for itself or entry fees would be higher next year.
The final of the VS category ended in a dead heat with Lt Andy Harmer and LCpl Jim Davidson both climbing the final route in 2 mins 21 secs. A tense super final left Lt Andy Harmer the cate­ gory winner. Meanwhile the best lady was won decisively by 2Lt Callaghan of Sheffield UOTC.
In the harder categories the routes were graded in the French man­ ner which is becoming the norm for sport routes indoors and out. The grading for the HVS to El category were Fr 6b for the elimi­ nator and Fr 6b+ for the final. The twelve finalists fought a close battle with five of the twelve coming within three holds of the top. It was however a spirited performance from LCpl Martin Whitbread that allowed him to be the only competitor to top out on the route and win the category.
The fiercest competition was however in the E2 and above catego­ ry. The seriously steep eliminator had been a tough Fr 6c, and the thirteen qualifiers knew that they had something even harder to come. This was by far the most closely fought category with all competitors hoping to win the champions trophy. The final route was graded Fr 7a and defeated all but the favourite OCdt Nathan Pike from Sheffield UOTC, who was the only competitor to top out on the route. His superb display of climbing ability beat W 02 Stephen Blake into second place (As well as taking the veterans trophy) and W02 Graham Carter into third place. The reigning champion Sgt Dave Bunting came sixth overall.
The event was again an overall success with thanks to Cotswold Camping for providing both the trophies and the substantial prizes, as well as Edelweiss for providing the ropes and Petzel the hardware. Thanks also to Paul Craven for Judging, route setting, and providing sponsorship and prizes from Powerbar and Isostar.
Finally if any one wants a competition T Shirt let me know I still have a few left!
W02 Mike Smith REME, E2 & Above: 7 Place