Page 19 - Yachter Spring/Summer 2020
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forecasts and just dealt with the weather as it happened.
Decision time: the electronic routing indicated only four minutes difference between leaving Sao Miguel to port or starboard.We chose westabout along with most other competitors, but there was no clear advantage either way when the fleets came together again.
Despite some favourable tide near the island, progress was slow, just 34 miles in the first 24 hours; we were happy if we were moving towards and not away from England. At this rate, we’ll take 35 days to Falmouth! We settled into our watch-keeping routine, three hours on, three hours off, and enjoyed the company of dolphins and (from a safe distance) a fleet of Portuguese-men-o-war. Each of these consists of a bizarre colony of specialised organisms, famously including tentacles up to 30m long.The part we could see was the float, which provides buoyancy control and acts as a sail, harnessing the wind – just as we were! I wonder how you tell what tack they are on?
Finally, during the night of day two, the wind settled southerly at around twelve knots. Six other boats were visible including Shuna, sailed by RSYC member Helena Lucas and her husband Stephen Thomas. Starting cloudy, the sun broke through and the sextant came out. Delighted to find that we were indeed in the Atlantic.The next day we logged 177 miles in the right direction, only 1,000 to go. That’s better!
But good things never last. The barometric pressure fell 9 MB in nine
hours, a warning of strong winds to come. We dropped the spinnaker, after a battle
and with what later proved to be a fracture of my right middle knuckle – oops! Treatment comprised painkillers (ibuprofen), elevation (when not doing anything else) and mobilisation (still had to sail Nirvana), exactly as subsequently recommended by the professional.We spent much of the day sheltering below from heavy rain, which cleared in the early evening for a spectacular sunset together with a complete double rainbow, frustratingly too wide for my camera.
After the blow, the wind settled and we had several 150-190-mile days, ticking off milestones: north of Spain; 500 miles to
go; north of Brest; only another channel crossing... But then, just as England seemed within reach, the wind went around to the NE. Not the promised ‘generally westerly quadrant’! It continued to build to full gale force with accompanying sea state.At least we missed the wargames in the western approaches; other competitors were told by British and US warships (which didn’t show on AIS) to avoid them.The reply:“OK, but where are you?” On Day ten we logged 131
miles, but with a choice of Ireland or France as destinations - only 73 miles closer to England! It was hard to move around. Keith had a heavy fall across the cabin but was ‘just’ bruised. I succeeded in making tea, only to drop the whole mug before I tasted it!
At last, we heard Falmouth coastguard for the first time:“Plymouth E 9, decreasing 8 imminent; Portland, Lundy E 8 continuing”. How long can this unseasonal gale continue? Then:“Inshore: strong winds continue to ease”. By late morning, just 34 miles to go – beer tonight!
No.The wind suddenly eased and kept easing.We put up all the sail we had and
still didn’t move. Early evening, the plotter showed us close to the Lizard, 25 miles to go, visibility 50-100m. Guess we’d better have dinner and not wait for the beer. Dawn on Day twelve, still thirteen miles to go – can we have the gale back, please? Frustrated to see another competitor on AIS making five knots but found she was motoring. Saw Manacle East Cardinal buoy 0350, the first object we’d seen since leaving the island.
At 05:34:55 BST, having taken more than twelve hours to cover the final 25 miles, we were greeted on the finish line by the race committee (complete with two beers!).At last! Kirsteen Donaldson
IT CONTINUED TO BUILD TO FULL GALE FORCE WITH ACCOMPANYING SEA STATE.
CRUISING REPORTS 19