Page 43 - 2015 AMA Autumn

In high spirits from this we aimed our sights on Lion’s Way (PD, 5.6) on Crescent Spire, knowing it to be snow free. With only a short jamming section I may have been slightly over enthusiastic deploying the tape gloves but they certainly did no harm! Snow free on the ascent, the descent was a different story and post holing through rotten snow was the, rather tedious, order of the day! Our final weather window saw us up the ante again and complete both the South East Spur (AD, 5.6) and South Ridge (AD-, 4th) of Brenta Spire, in ascent and descent respectively. All was going well until on the descent, likely as a result of the previous day’s strain, Baz Whale broke his leg. Two Doctors, an Engineer and a roll of zinc oxide tape later and he was walking again; though relieved to finally get back to his tent for the appropriate tools.
These were all spectacular remote Alpine routes with no other parties in sight,
although the pathless walk ins made for some long hill days. The plan had been to walk back down to our vehicle for a food resupply however the timing of the weather window closing, and some culinary ingenuity, coincided conveniently allowing us to avoid that unwelcome task.
The long range forecast showed no signs of breaking and heavy snow was forecast to take the park out of condition so with heavy hearts we packed up having only had a taste of the quality climbing and knowing the 2015 season was over. So to the next challenge. What to do in poor weather? The pre-planned alternative had been Canmore with sport crags and Yamnuska, an adventure trad climbing crag/mountain face.
After a day of sorting out kit, dragging out coffees and indulging Alex Martin-Bates’s shopping addiction the next poor weather
day was spent sheltering in Canmore’s rule obsessed climbing wall. A day on Yamnuska proved a healthy reminder of the North American definition of ‘run-out’ but the team made an ascent of Easy Street (5.6). The climbing was straightfor- ward, but reliable gear and route finding were certainly more challenging!
Canmore has quite a few reasonable sport crags, though not many routes for the aspirant leader! On the more suspect weather days we managed some bolt clipping with the guys all giving leading, including the mandatory solo to the first bolt, a go.
As with so many trips I have certainly left with a longer ticklist than I arrived. If anyone fancies a trip to a superb remote Alpine climbing venue I will certainly be back; Ex Bugaboo Tiger 16 anyone...
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