Page 9 - 2000 AMA Alps

a breather after every few steps is tempting and a great deal of time (valuable for the descent) can be wasted on the final approach.
Again the weathermen were absolutely correct, and the summit was gained at 07:25, as the sun began to assert its dominance. Needless to say the summit was shared with approximately 40 others. General fatigue amongst most who had come by the traverse, and a distrust of the snow on the descent from Mount Maudit led to a correct decision to descend by the Bosse ridge. A steady stream of people makes for an irritating passage on what is clearly a high altitude copy of the ‘Autoroute Blanche’. A sad experience detracting from the feeling of achievement of having stood on the top of Europe.
The descent is deceptively long, and time should not be wasted. A speedy change and two paracetamol tablets at the Gouter Refuge ensured a place at the head of the queue below the hut. A most hazardous mountain path winds its way left and right. Wires are in place and a cows tail and karabiners are firmly recommended for security for even the most sure-footed. Crampons are essential for the first half of the route. The path winds its way down into the valley, moving through a sort of moonscape of red rock and eventually, after 2 hours from the Gouter Refuge, reaches the Train du Mont Blanc. Off at Belierne and the Telepherique down to Les Houches completed the journey. The two Irish lads, who had accompanied us from Mont Maudit had no funds, but appreciated Dusty's wise words about the avalanche risk on Mont Maudit came all the way down at our expense.
Anne (the Guardienne at La Cordée, ever the star, provided transport back to Base, where Dave took over, driving Al and the two Irish lads to the Aiguille de Midi telepherique - the tents were still on the Col du Midi. After an adrenalin boosted collapse of the tent and a 25min climb back up to the telepherique the day finally closed at 1800. The descent and the collection of the tent having taken longer than the ascent and traverse of all three peaks.
A staggering and fantastic route, but one that unfortunately provides little satisfaction other than that gained by the physical challenge of completingthethree. Manydecisionsweremade,allprovedcorrectwith the exception of one. It is best to bivi at the Aguille du Midi. Contrary to the book the staff do not hang draw and quarter any climbers hiding in the ice tunnel. Facilities are opened again after the last tourists have gone down, and the tunnel provides adequate warmth and protection. Start the route at 2300hrs and you will have plenty of time and one avoids the problem of leaving tent and kit at the Aiguille du Midi.
Dusty on the Dômede Gouter.
AMA ALPS 2000
M ultipart
T ransfleot
Dawn on Vallée Blache.