Page 11 - 2000 AMA Alps

Darren Graves and Ruaraidh Hill on lop of the Gross Grunhorn.
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^ W WilliLWill&Hinter Fiescherhorn, 4025m By Jonathan Barnett.
2 Fieshersattel descent to foot of SW Ridge from Gross Fiescherhorn provides an interesting down climb from the saddle with snow to 45°. Good snow is a must for this route and you need to ensure that you are not coming down too late in the day Luckily the route Is west facing so doesn't get the full brunt of the sun until later on. From the foot of the ridgeline is an extremely slow and tiring route back to the Monchjoch Hut in the full glare of the sun. This takes up to 2 hours to complete.
Difficulty: PD (Descent of North-West ridge AD+).
Ateam of four set off from the Monchjoch Hut at 5am, descending
E and then SE across the Ewigschneefeld to a point 3360m at the
SW Ridge of the Gross Fiescherhorn (1hr). From here there is a
safe snow band up through to the head of the bowl formed betweenSpecial information: These are two separate mountains in their own right and
Date: 22 July 2000.
Valley base: Grindelwald. Start Point: Obermonchjoch Mountain hut: Monchjoch Hut Description of route:
the Gross and Hinter Fiescherhorn (1hr). This is to the route described in the guidebook which guides you further SE to hug the SW Ridge of the Hinter Fiescherhorn, but provides a safer (less crevasses) route to the Bergschrund At this point there is a Bergschrund to be crossed and then a steep (40o) snow slope to ascend (requires good snow conditions) to reach the Fieschersattel (3923m) (45mins). From the col, in good weather both summits can be reached within about 30 mins. Both routes have a mixed ascent.
The descent: We had two teams on this route which gave us the option to take two descent paths.
the guidebook suggests that you should not consider trying to tackle them both. We were lucky with the weather and it would have been a shame not to have done both, but in difficult conditions this would have been a major undertaking. There was a thought to send a group to attack the Grosser Grunhom from this direction but the North East Ridge of the Grunhom was imposing and it was understood why the guidebook suggests a route from the south. The return from the foot of the mountain to the west, back to the Monchjoch Hut, should not be underestimated. Thought should be given to this before deciding whether to go for both peaks.
First ascent Summer: Gross - H George and A Moore with C Aimer and U Kaufmann, 23 Jul 1862 Winter: G Lammer and A Lorria, 28 Jul 1885.
Recommended guidebooks: Bernese Oberland - Selected Climbs, Les Swindon, Alpine Club Guide Books.
Recommended maps: Landeskarte Der Schweiz; 1:50,000, No 264 - Jungfrau.
A/elschom seen from near the Manchjock hut.
1.
NE Ridge (AD, ll/lll - mixed & ice to 50°) and then westward to rejoin the Ewig higher up. The NW ridge has
significant exposure, a 60m ice slope
and several corniced sections. An
exciting and exacting climb, particularly in descent
Equipment: Rope; harnesses; karabiners; slings; prussiks.