Page 13 - 2000 AMA Alps

Finsteraarhorn, 4273m
By Jonathan Barnett.
Date: 25 July 2000. Valley base: Grindelwald.
Start point: Finsteraarhorn mountain hut at 3100m.
Mountain hut: Finsteraarhorn Hut. Description of route:
From the Finsteraarhorn Hut ascend the rock band directly behind the hut for 45 minutes. From the rock band head in a northerly direction to intercept the south-west
ridge at 3616m. Then ascend a steep snowfield contouring the base of the ridge veering around to the left. F/om the Hugtsuttell col follow the ridge N^fidge to
The descent: Followed same route as ascent., Snow conditions however had
Piz Bernina, 4049m
By Jonathan Barnett
Date: 2 August 2000.
Valley base: Pontresina.
Start point: Diavolezza chair lift at valley station at 2050m. First lift at 0830hrs to Diavolezza hut at 2973m.
Mountain hut: Marca Rosa Hut. Description of route:
F rom the Diavolezza Hut descend on a path on to the Vadret Pres glacier. Take a SW route to cross the glacier,
skirting the east side of Rifugidalis outcrop. From here travel due west up the broad snow field to gain the Fortezzagarret ridge. Continue along the narrow ridge (sustained at II and I). Climb this to the Bella Vista terraces. Before reaching the notch of the Fuorcla Bella Vista turn right and traverse westwards on the snow terraces gradually gaining height, as far as north of the most westerly Bella Vista summit. Descend steeply into the snow trough of the Morteratsch glacier. Before reaching the ice falls descend further to about 3600m and traverse westwards to the saddle of the Fuorclacrast Aguzza. From here travel due west to the Marca Rosa hut, 3597m, which is situated in the rock band.
Having gained a peaceful and tranquil overnight stop an early start beckoned. From the hut ascend a steepening snowfield to gain the rock ridge. Cross this rock ridge onto the eastern side which will provide access to the snow ridge above. Follow the undulating knife edged ridge for 400m to the summit. The ascent from the Marca Rosa hut takes approximately 1h30mins in ideal conditions.
The descent: Followed same route as ascent. A recommended alternative is the ridge walk including Piz Palu.
Difficulty: PD.
Equipment: Walking axe, helmet, two screws, two prussiks, crampons, harness, two slings, four carabinas and rope 50m.
Special information: The Marca Rosa hut is full of Italian character typified by the effeminate waiter and music.
First ascent: Summer: 1850 by Swiss surveyor Johann Croaz and the brothers John and Laurenz Ragut Tscharner.
Recommended guidebooks: The Alpine 4000m Peaks by the Classic Routes, Richard Goedeke.
Recommended maps: Piz Bernina, Blatt 1277, 1:25,000.
the summit.
Height of,summit
Equipment: Walking axe, helmet, two screws, two prussiks, crampons, harness, two slings, four carabinas and rope 50m.
First ascent: Summer: 1812 from SE by three guides; Alois Bolker, Joseph Bortis and Arnold Abbuhl.
Recommended guidebooks: The Alpine 4000m Peaks by the Classic Routes, Richard Goedeke.
Recommended maps: Jungfrau, Blatt 264 1:50,000
deteriorated difficult.
Difficulty: PD.
which
made descent more