Page 14 - 2000 AMA Alps
P. 14
Loo/ong down the Aletsch glacier.
Gross GrĂ¼nhorn, 4043m
By Jonathan Barnett.
Valley base: Grindelwald. Start point: Jungfraujoch. Mountain hut: Konkordia Hut. Difficulty: PD+
Equipment: Ropes, crampons, harnesses, ice screws (for crevasse rescue).
Description of route:
This route should be done in conjunction with a number of other routes in the area as it requires a long slog from the Junfraujoch down to the Konkordi hut which takes approximately 3 hours At foot of the cliff that houses the hut one can immediately see enormity of the glacial retreat that has occurred in the area. A huge flog ensues at the end of your journey to get you up to the hut (approximatley 700 steps!).
The Konkordia is well appointed and very friendly unlike the privately owned Monchjoch Hut which is very much a money making venture. We spent the afternoon relaxing in the sunshine and preparing for the route up the Gross Grunhorn.
Leaving at approximately 4.30 am which left the hut turning NE to ascend the Grunnegfirn glacier. This is a straight forward section that does not require roping up providing the the galcier is dry. At the end of the prominent rock a route turns N-NW up to point 3475 which can be topped with a cornice. On our ascent this was easily pushed through as it had been used by groups on previous days. Once you have gained the ridge you should keep to the snow field to the west of the ridge which makes for the easiest ascent of the Grunegghorn at 3860m. From this location there are wonderful views of the Finsteraarhorn and across to the Jungfrau and the Monch.
From the Grunneghorn the route drops dramatically to a col that splits the Grunegghorn from the Gross Grunhorn. In good conditions one can descend this singularly but it is inclement weather one should take care of on this section.
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From there one should stick to the western side of the ridge that gives
an obus route up to the summit. This is the most technical part of the route and one should take care of novices on this section as short- roping is necessary.