Page 33 - 2022 AMA Summer

ICE AXES
By Sean Mackey (AML, WML, WCL)
Grivel Munro
To confuse things even more, all walking and mountaineering axes come in a couple of different ratings (‘T’ and ‘B’). Simply put, a T-rated ice axe has a shaft that is strong enough to be used as a belay. While mostly all climbing axes are T-rated not all walking or mountaineering axes are, so it’s definitely worth checking before using or buying one – just look for the letter in a circle marked on the shaft. For the aspiring mountaineer who wants one axe for everything a T-rated axe is probably best as they will be stronger on mixed ground and for use as an anchor.
When I look at using an axe, the first thing I check (after getting the correct length) is the size of the adze head. While this might seem trivial, a smaller adze may mean more swinging and energy expended when cutting steps or digging out a seat or emergency shelter. Simply put, having a wider or broader adze gives you a bigger shovel to cut with. The second thing I check is the weight. Reducing the weight of equipment has come on leaps and bounds in the last decade but I’d warn you against buying the lightest axe on the market just to save weight. When swinging the tool or cutting steps, having a heavier ice tool makes it easier to penetrate harder névé or water ice. I have also heard of people buying a shorter axe than the one they actually need to save weight. While this does achieve the aim of reducing the burden on those long walk-ins whilst carrying everything on your back, it can affect your safety and make you bend over constantly when you actually have to use it; thus, hurting your back anyway!
For many people, one piece of kit they look forward to using or buying the most is the ice axe. While this
is simply a tool used in the mountains to protect yourself on steep ground, it brings out everyone’s inner caveman wanting to hit something with it. The novelty soon wears off but a period of hitting things like a coalminer on overtime is to be expected.
Axes come in all shapes and sizes but they all have the same four universal items; a pick, adze, shaft and spike. The length of the shaft depends on how tall you are. The walking axe is held on its head (with the pick and adze) 95% of the time and the spike at the end of the shaft needs to be able to engage with the snow on steep angled slopes. An old school rule of thumb is when held in this position,
the spike should be level with top of your boot. The length is therefore completely personal and most brands provide their axe in a variety of lengths to suit your height.
The three common types of axes you hear of are mountaineering axes, walking axes and climbing axes.
A pure walking axe has a straight shaft making it better for plunging or self-arrest. These can vary in length from 50 to 70cm with some brands. You can get away with quite a lot with this axe from low grade Scottish winter routes to multi-day adventures in the Alps. It’s a workhorse and if you’re moving from summer walking into some more exciting and challenging snowy environments this is probably what
you’ll need first.
Climbing axes come in a pair with one usually having an adze and the other having a hammer. It isn’t uncommon to see climbing axes without an adze at
DMM Cirque
all. Aggressively curved to allow a more natural hand position when engaged in the snow or ice, it doesn’t require the same grip strength
Petzl Summit
to pull on as would be the case with a straight shaft. Climbing axes are much shorter as they need to be more precise when being swung, placed or hooked on different ledges.
Sat in between the walking and climbing axe is the mountaineering axe. Like the walking axe this is used on its own without a partner but looks a bit like a longer climbing axe. They come in the same lengths as a walking axe. Moun- taineering axes are generally more technical and curved, to be able to swing or hook onto a placement thus allowing for greater purchase when using it in the ‘axe’ mode. The slight curve does make it more difficult to plunge into the snow though when being held by its head but it is nonetheless much better than using a climbing axe.
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