Page 58 - Bulletin, Vol.83 No.3, December 2024

Day 7

We set off for the condor viewpoint. The journey is pleasant, lush with conifers and
eucalyptus. The view down into the canyons is breathtaking. Having punctured a tyre, I
ride with Jean-Mi, who takes me to the viewpoint. It is a very busy place and you would
think that the mighty condors, of which there are many, have been trained to please the
tourists. While I recuperate my repaired motorbike, the others set off without a guide for
the next stop: Lake Titicaca. They take a wrong turn, due to false GPS data and find
themselves in the pampas with dunes as far as the eye can see and not a signpost to
help them find their way. In the middle of nowhere, a woman puts them in the right
direction, and they continue off-roading blindly, from one dune to the other, endlessly.
Finally, they reach a road. I, for my part, struggle along behind my guide, and we arrive
at a village and stop there. I am sure my friends have long since arrived at the hotel.
The night is pitch black but we are finally reunited there and my companions tell me of
their ordeal.

The agency has arranged for us to stop at another garage in Juliaca, but the last 62
kilometres drive is never-ending. Finally, we are all together. We leave our bikes there
and board a bus. We arrive in Puno by the lake. We informed the agency that we refuse
to continue with the bikes. We'll finish the trip as "normal" tourists, albeit with a touch of
frustration.

Day 8

Today we visit this mythical lake, a remnant of an ocean shaped by tectonic forces. It is
the size of Corsica and 60% of its surface is located in Peru. We visit the archipelago of
the artificial Uros islands, made up of layers of reeds. Families earn their living from
tourism. Taking a dip in the waters of the highest navigable lake in the world was my
dream, and it is now a reality ! We then sail to the Takile Island and have lunch enjoying
a magnificent Mediterranean landscape.

Day 9

Our journey continues by bus, which is less rock and roll, but at least we'll remain in one
piece. We cross the Altiplano. The vegetation is greener, and eucalyptus trees abound.
People use them for heating and carpentry, and we can see the long stems stored here
and there. Women in multicoloured clothes sell cakes and drinks by the side of the
road. A few villages later, we visit the ruins of Pukara.

This site is made up of stone buildings that were used as silos.

A shock: visiting the wonderful church of San Pedro gives you goose pimples. Built in
the 16th century on the foundations of an Inca temple, its paintings depict conquistadors
alongside pious images and statues, once again an example of the syncretism of these
people. Taking photographs are not allowed on site.

We arrive in Cusco, which is at an altitude of 3,400 metres, a city with a mixture of inca
and modern buildings, and where the trafic is heavy. We share a pisco, the local aperitif,
in the hotel bar.

56 AAFI-AFICS BULLETIN, Vol. 83 No. 3, 2024-12

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