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travel  California sea lion                                                          Sea of Cortez
 (left) just below
 the surface at El
 Morro, San Pedro
 Martir Island; Raft of
 California sea lions
 (right) reflecting in
 the smooth surface of
 the water and diver
 (below) with playful
 California sea lions
 at Ravijunco, off San
 Pedro Martir Island



 ders and abundant
 marine life. The
 crevices between
 the rocks allowed
 for plenty of hid-
 ing places for the
 various inverte-
 brates and reef fish,
 while anemones,





















                                                  sponges, hydroids and          Strong tidal currents produced by
                                                  gorgonians grew on           the lunar tides in the Pacific Ocean
                                                  the rocks themselves. A      can create drift dive conditions
                                                  strong current came up       and are especially robust during a
                                                  for the night dive mak-      full moon. These tidal currents also
                                                  ing macro photography        produce upwelling’s that bring
 Andrea’s Eagle. Our second   the size of a baseball—hid   all but impossible.  nutrients from the depths, which
 day of the expedition began   in a burrow in deeper water.     Diving the northern   can affect visibility as well as tem-
 with two dives at Andrea’s   Large aggregates of blue   Sea of Cortez can be a   perature. Amongst the various dive
 Eagle, one of my favorite   and yellow chromis, Mexican   bit of a challenge due   sites, over the week of diving, we
 sites—so named for the osprey  hogfish and king angelfish   to the varied conditions   experienced a ten-degree differ-
 (fish eagle) nest on the cliffs   pulsated above the rocky reef   dive to dive, but that is   ence in temperatures.
 overhead. Underwater, this   and Cortez angelfish swam   also part of the adven-
 rocky pinnacle provided an   through forests of pristine   ture. Water tempera-  San Pedro Martir Island
 equal breadth of amazing   yellow polyp black coral at   ture, visibility and cur-  Overnight, the boat moved south
 wide-angle and macro sub-  depth.                rent can change from         from Angel Island to the island of
 jects. Male orangethroat pike-                   one site to the next,        San Pedro Martir, and we were
 blennys were displaying for a   El Aquario. After lunch we   between successive   subsequently serenaded awake by
 mate in the shallows, while a   had two dives at El Aquario,   dives and occasionally   hundreds of brown booby birds fish-
 fine spotted jawfish—its head   a site with piles of large boul-  during the dive itself.   ing for their breakfast.
              Brown booby perched on boat
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