Page 376 - Hawaii: Diving, Surfing, Pearl Harbor, Volcanoes and More

arly historical records of surfing appear surf on Paipo (belly) boards. It was here in surfing ability, and their surfboards were
E in the late 1700s, when Europeans and Hawaii that the art of standing and surfing among their prized possessions.
Polynesians made first contact in Tahiti. upright on long boards was invented. Riding
Navigator Captain James Cook described waves lying down or standing on long, hard- he Ancient Hawaiian people did not
how a Tahitian caught waves with his out- wood surfboards was an integral part of Ha- T consider surfing a mere recreational ac-
rigger canoe just for the fun of it: “On walk- waiian culture. Surfboard riding was as lay- tivity, hobby, extreme sport, or career as it
ing one day about Matavai Point, where our ered into the society, religion and myth of is viewed today. Rather, the Hawaiian peo-
tents were erected, I saw a man paddling in the islands. Many Ancient Hawaiian chants ple integrated surfing into their culture and
a small canoe so quickly and looking about tell of christening surfboards, to the Gods to made surfing more of an art than anything
him with such eagerness of each side. He make big waves for surfing and to give cour- else.[citation needed] They referred to this
then sat motionless and was carried along age to the men who rode these waves. art as hee nalu which translates into English
at the same swift rate as the wave, till it as “wave sliding.” The art began before en-
landed him upon the beach. Then he started awaii was ruled by many different tering the mysterious ocean as the Hawai-
out, emptied his canoe, and went in search H Kapu (taboos). These kapu regulated ians prayed to the gods for protection and
of another swell. I could not help concluding everything from where and what to eat to strength to undertake the powerful mysti-
that this man felt the most supreme pleas- learning how to build a good surfboard fying ocean. If the ocean was tamed, frus-
ure while he was driven on so fast and so and how to convince the Gods to make the trated surfers would call upon the kahuna
smoothly by the sea.” surf good. Hawaiian society was very dis- (priest), who would aid them in a surfing
tinct in separating the Ali’i (Royalty) from prayer asking the gods to deliver great surf.
o discusison about surfing is completely ac- the commoner. There were certain beaches Prior to entering the ocean, the priest would
N cruate unless you explore the history of surf- that the ali’i would surf on boards up to 24 also aid the surfers (mainly of the upper
ing in Hawaii that cause the revival of the sport feet long, while commoners would surf at class) in undertaking the spiritual ceremony
workd-wide. Polynesian’s began to make their different beaches and ride boards up to 12 of constructing a surfboard.
way to the Hawaiian Island from Tahiti and feet long. Several of Hawaii’s most famous
the Marquesas. They brought many of their Chiefs including Kaumali’I the ruler of Kauai
customs with them including playing in the and Kamehameha I were renowned for their