Page 203 - Knack Knots You Need

KLeMheISt KnOt hItCheS

A friction knot for ascending a rope
or escaping a belay.

When tied properly, the klemheist knot grips the rope
when weighted but releases and slides along the rope
when the load is off. It releases and slides with more ease
than the Prusik knot (see page 102) but grips with less
tenacity than the Prusik. It works well for tying off a climb-
er’s rope to allow escape from the belay.

Klemheist Knot: Step 1 Klemheist Knot: Step 2

Wrap a loop of cord or a sling of webbing four Pass the lower end of the loop through the
or five times around the rope and toward the upper end and clip a carabiner into the lower
load, keeping the wraps neatly laid against the loop.
rope.
Add more wraps if the knot slips.

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